Rabu, 29 Februari 2012

How to Replace Rear Disc Brakes in a Plymouth Neon

In 1995, Plymouth released the first Neon. Throughout this time, the Neon was sold with either disc or drum brakes in the rear. Both types of brakes provide adequate stopping power for a small car, but disc brakes are easier to replace on your own. Read further to learn how.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the Neon off the ground using a car jack. Balance the vehicle on all sides to prevent it from tipping. Keep kids and animals out of the area while servicing the car.

    2

    Take off the rear wheels and remove the two pin bolts that connect the caliper to the steering knuckle guide. Turn the unattached end of the caliper away from the steering knuckle. Slide the caliper from underneath the steering knuckle and hang it from the upper control arm.

    3

    Pry the outboard brake pad's retaining clip over the edge of the caliper and slip out the pad. Separate the inboard brake pad from the piston by pulling the retaining clip from its cavity.

    4

    Inspect the caliper for brake fluid in or around the boot as this may signify a leak in the piston seal. If you detect damage or leakage, take apart the caliper and replace the seal and boot. Check the caliper pin bushings and replace if dry or damaged.

    5

    Compress the piston into the caliper using a C-clamp. Press the new inboard brake shoe into the caliper using both thumbs. Insert the outboard brake shoe in the caliper making sure the retaining clip sits firmly in the depressed area. Remove the C-clamp.

    6

    Grease the adapter caliper slide abutments using a multipurpose lubricant. Lower the caliper and brake shoes over the brake rotor until the caliper's bottom edge catches the back side of the caliper slide abutment. Turn the top of the caliper back into mounting position.

    7

    Replace the caliper pin bolts and tighten with a torque wrench to 16 ft. lb. Put the wheels back on and tighten the lug nuts with a torque wrench to 100 ft. lb. Lower the Neon, and then seat the brake pads by pumping the brake pedal until firm.

How to Change Brakes on a 2001 MR2 Spider

Toyota recommends checking the brake pads on your 2001 MR2 Spider every 15,000 miles. You should also check them whenever you notice unusual braking noise or vibration. Installing the replacement brakes in your MR2 Spider will take about 15 minutes per wheel. You can purchase replacement brake pads from most auto-parts stores. Unlike many vehicles, these pads will come with replacement retainer clips. The clips should be replaced whenever the pads are.

Instructions

Front Brakes

    1

    Loosen the front lug nuts. Lift the front of the vehicle with a floor jack placed under the front frame crossmember. Place a jack stand under each of the support points marked by a pair of notches behind the front tiress. Lower the car onto the stands, and remove the front wheels.

    2

    Unbolt the caliper from the torque plate. Pull it off the rotor, and suspend it with a piece of wire so it's not hanging from the brake hose. Remove the brake pads, shims and wear indicators from the caliper. They are held in place by a pair of support plates. Remove these plates as well.

    3

    Install replacement support plates on the caliper, followed by wear indicators, shims and pads. Press the caliper piston in with a hammer handle to open it. Slide the caliper over the rotor, and bolt it back in place, torquing to 25 pound-feet. Repeat on the other front side of the vehicle.

    4

    Install the wheels, and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lift the front slightly to remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Finish tightening the nuts.

Rear Brakes

    5

    Loosen the rear lug nuts. Raise the rear of the vehicle using the jack pad under the axle beam. Place the vehicle on a pair of jack stands using the support points ahead of the rear tires and marked by a pair of notches. Remove the rear wheels.

    6

    Unbolt the bracket holding the flexible brake hose in place. Remove the lower bolt from the caliper. Lift it, and suspend it with a piece of wire.

    7

    Remove the brake pads, shims and supporting plates. Install the replacements into the caliper. Lower it into place, and bolt it in. Torque the bolt to 14 pound-feet. Bolt the brake hose bracket back in place. Repeat on the other rear side.

    8

    Install the wheels, hand-tightening the bolts. Lower the vehicle, and tighten the nuts fully.

Selasa, 28 Februari 2012

How to Change Rotors on a Chrysler PT Cruiser

The rotors on the Chrysler PT Cruiser need to be in good condition for the brakes to work properly. The brake calipers rest on the rotors and are what the brake pads clamp onto to stop the car. If the rotors have grooves dug into them from bad brakes or any other damage, they need to be refinished or replaced completely. Given that brake pads need to be changed as a set, it's likely that if the rotor on one side needs changing, so does the other.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the end of the PT Cruiser that you're changing the rotors for on jack stands and remove the wheels. It helps to loosen the lug nuts with the wrench before raising the car. If you're raising the rear end, release the parking brake.

    2

    Prepare the brake caliper on the rotor for removal. Clean it with a brake cleaner spray, using a drain pan to catch the residue--never use compressed air. Retract the caliper piston into its bore with a C-clamp. Siphon out fluid from the master cylinder if needed, to prevent overflow.

    3

    Disconnect the brake caliper and its mounting bracket (front rotors only) from the rotor by removing the mounting bolts with a ratchet wrench. Hang the caliper somewhere secure with a strong wire. Don't hang the caliper by its hose, and don't disconnect the hose (or you'll have to bleed the system later).

    4

    Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor is stuck to the hub, insert two bolts into the threaded holes on the rotor and tighten them to force the rotor off the hub.

    5

    Take the rotor to an automotive machine shop to have it refinished if possible. The rotor cannot be finished down to less than the minimum thickness stated on the inside of the rotor. Use a micrometer to check the rotor's thickness.

    6

    Wipe away any glaze on the rotor (especially a new one) by rubbing it with an emory cloth or sandpaper, using swirling motions.

    7

    Place the new or refinished rotor back over the wheel studs on the hub; use the wheel lug nuts to temporarily keep it in place. Reconnect the brake caliper to the rotor, remove the lug nuts, then reconnect the wheel and lower the car.

    8

    Pump the Cruiser's brake pedal multiple times to make sure the brake pads are properly seated on the rotor.

Senin, 27 Februari 2012

How to Remove Calipers on a 2001 Ford Expedition

How to Remove Calipers on a 2001 Ford Expedition

The brake calipers on a 2001 Ford Expedition work in conjunction with the brake rotor and pads to slow the vehicle when the driver presses the brake pedal. Over time the seals inside the caliper can leak, which will result in poor brake performance. In addition, the piston inside the caliper could stick inside the bore, causing the brakes to hang up. Removing the calipers on a 2001 Ford Expedition can be accomplished by the home mechanic. All you need are a few simple tools.

Instructions

Removing the Wheels

    1

    Open the 2001 Ford Expedition's hood. Unhook the ground cable from the negative battery post by loosening the retaining bolt, using a wrench, then twisting the clamp off the terminal.

    2

    Siphon the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, using an old turkey baster. Never use the turkey baster for food again.

    3

    Loosen but do not remove the lug nuts on the Expedition's front wheels, using a lug wrench.

    4

    Raise the front of the Expedition using an automotive jack. Support with jack stands placed underneath the front frame.

    5

    Remove the lug nuts you loosened earlier and pull the front wheels off the lug studs, using you hands. Set the wheels and lug nuts out of the way.

Removing the Caliper

    6

    Position the C-clamp over the brake caliper, with the bottom of the clamp on the inboard side of the caliper and the top of the clamp on the back of the outboard brake pad. Close the clamp to drive the piston into the caliper.

    7

    Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the brake caliper.

    8

    Unscrew the banjo bolt that connects the rubber hydraulic line to the brake caliper, using a socket. Pull the line away from the caliper. Be aware that brake fluid may leak out at this point.

    9

    Unscrew the two bolts that connect the brake caliper to the steering knuckle, using a socket.

    10

    Lift the caliper up and away from the brake rotor with your hands. Then remove it from the vehicles.

Minggu, 26 Februari 2012

DIY Toyota Brake Booster

DIY Toyota Brake Booster

The brake booster on a Toyota increases the force applied to the brakes and reduces the distance the brake pedal has to travel. If your vehicle requires excessive effort to slow it down, or the brakes only engage when the pedal is against the floor, your brake booster likely needs to be replaced.

Location

    The brake booster is located on the driver's side of the firewall, behind the master cylinder. On some models it may be partially covered by the left front fender. It is a large cylinder connected to the engine by a vacuum hose.

Removal

    Remove the four nuts that connect the brake booster to the master cylinder and gently slide the master cylinder forward. Be careful not to damage the steel brake lines that are attached to the master cylinder. In the passenger cabin, disconnect the brake pedal push rod by removing the retaining clip and disengaging the clevis pin. Loosen the spring clamp that connects the vacuum hose to the brake booster and remove the vacuum line. Then remove the four nuts that connect the brake booster to the firewall. Remove the booster from the vehicle.

Installation

    Clean any gasket material off the mounting surface on the firewall and put a new brake booster gasket in place. Drop the booster into position and reinstall the four nuts that secure it. Reattach the vacuum hose to the brake booster and reinstall the spring clamp that retains it. Move inside the passenger cabin. Reconnect the brake pedal push rod and reinstall the clevis pin and retaining clip. Install a new gasket between the brake booster and master cylinder and slide the master cylinder into position against the face of the brake booster. Reinstall the four nuts that secure it. Check the fluid in the master cylinder and fill it if any was lost.

Bleeding the Brakes

    Turn on the engine and press the brake pedal. If the brakes feel spongy, you will need to bleed the brake system. Jack up the vehicle and remove the wheels. Begin with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder; on most vehicles this will be the right rear. Locate the bleed screw on the brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Have an assistant hold the brake pedal down while you turn the screw to open it. Be careful not to put too much stress on the bleed screw--you could break it. Place a length of plastic tubing over the screw and immerse the other end of the tube in a jar of brake fluid. Look for bubbles in the fluid that flows out of the tube. Make sure the tube is immersed in brake fluid at all times. Tighten the screw and have the assistant pump the brake pedal. Continue the process until there are no more bubbles in the fluid. Repeat this process on the other wheels.

Sabtu, 25 Februari 2012

How to Replace Rear Disc Brakes in a Subaru Outback

Replacing the disc brakes on a Subaru Outback is a simple procedure compared to many other vehicles. A novice mechanic easily completes this process within a couple of hours. The one thing to note is that you will need specific grease and lubricant when you replace the brakes.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the negative battery cable to prevent electrical shock. Make sure it doesn't make contact with the battery when you replace the brakes on the Outback.

    2

    Lift the rear of the car off the ground with car jacks. Support it on all sides with jack stands to prevent it from tipping. Keep children and animals out of the vicinity.

    3

    Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels with a torque wrench. Take off the wheel and tire assemblies. Set them aside face up to prevent damage.

    4

    Take off the caliper bolt without disconnecting the brake fluid hose. Slip out the old disc brake pads.

    5

    Grease the pad clips with Molykote M743. Spread it on the brake pad clip in a thin layer. Wipe up any excess lubricant with a lint free cloth.

    6

    Lubricate the contact area between the pad and shims with Molykote AS-880N. Replace the pad and shims with the new ones. Replace the caliper bolt.

    7

    Replace the wheel and tire assemblies. Lower the Outback to the ground and verify that the brake fluid is at the proper level.

Jumat, 24 Februari 2012

How to Remove the Drum Brakes in a 1989 Tempo

How to Remove the Drum Brakes in a 1989 Tempo

Ford introduced the Tempo in 1984. The 1989 was equipped with a 2.3-liter, in-line, 4-cylinder engine. The 1989 Ford Tempo was produced with front wheel ventilated disk brakes, while the rear brakes were drum style. Just removing the drum brake system on the 1989 Tempo should take about 1 hour. Completely replacing the drum brake system usually takes about 2 hours per side if you have never performed this project before. This is a challenging task because of the number of small parts involved in the drum brake assembly, and the difficulty involved in removing or installing the parts.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the torque from the rear wheel nuts by turning them counterclockwise, using a tire iron. Lift the rear of the Tempo using a 2-ton jack or a jack with greater capacity. Place a jack stand at both ends of the rear axle beam to support the rear of the Tempo for this entire project. Remove the wheel nuts completely from the rear wheels, then remove the rear wheels. Make sure that the parking brake is released prior to attempting work on the drum brake system.

    2

    Remove the rear brake drum from one side of the Tempo. Remove the two springs that run from the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions up to the top of the brake assembly. These are tension springs that hold the brake shoes and hardware together as one system. Use a flathead screwdriver, or brake spring tool, to hook the top of the springs and pull them free of the mounting post. Let the springs contract, then pull the bottoms of the springs from their mounting posts by hand.

    3

    Remove the tension and self-adjuster spring from behind the rear shoes, on the bottom side of the drum brake assembly. This spring runs horizontally behind the brake shoes to hold together the shoes and the brake adjusting system. Pull one end of the spring free with a flathead screwdriver or brake spring tool. Let the tension spring retract, then remove the other side by twisting and pulling it out with your hand.

    4

    Remove the shoe hold-down springs with a brake spring tool or a large handheld nut driver. Place the driver on the "saucer" or retainer clip on the outside of the spring. Place your finger behind the brake assembly, and hold the center pin in place. Depress and turn the retainer clip with one hand, while keeping the center pin in place by pushing on it with your other hand. Turning the clip will align the pin with the clip and allow the clip to slide off the end of the pin. It does not matter which way you turn the clip. Continue this procedure until you have removed both brake shoe hold-down springs and center pins from the rear brake assembly.

    5

    Remove the brake shoes by hand. One brake shoe will come straight off the brake assembly, whereas the other brake shoe will need to be twisted to free the brake shoe from the parking brake lever. This lever raises and lowers when the parking brake is engaged, and manually causes the drum brakes to expand and hold the vehicle in place. When you have removed the brake shoes, you should only have the emergency brake lever and the wheel cylinder left on the brake assembly.

    6

    Rotate and twist the parking brake lever with one hand while putting pressure on the parking brake cable to release it from the lever. Corrosion and road grime can cause these two parts to lock together over time. Twisting the lever while holding the cable will free the parts of road grime. Remove the parking brake lever from the brake cable by hand.

    7

    Remove the brake line that is inserted in the rear of the wheel cylinder, using an open-end wrench or line wrench to spin the line fitting free. Turn the brake line fitting counterclockwise to remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder. Remove the brake line and gently bend the brake line so the open end is facing upward. Turning the line upward will reduce the amount of brake fluid that comes out of the brake system when the end of the line is opened.

    8

    Remove the two wheel cylinder mounting bolts using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket. Turn the bolts counterclockwise until they are free of the wheel cylinder completely. Remove the wheel cylinder by hand, or use a flathead screwdriver to pry the wheel cylinder free if necessary.

    9

    Repeat Steps 2 through 8 to completely remove the drum brake assembly from the second side on the rear of the Tempo.

How to Test Trailer Brakes

Most trailer brakes come with a brake shoe/brake drum braking system. When the brake knob is pulled out, the brake shoes are compressed to the inside of the brake drum. When the brake knob is pushed in, the brake shoes are released from the inside of the brake drums. As the brake shoes wear down, the brakes will will need to be readjusted. Maintain a constant check on the brake shoe thickness to prevent the shoes from wearing too thin and damaging the brake drums.

Instructions

    1

    Pull the trailer onto a flat surface and apply the trailer brakes by pulling out on the brake knob on the dash.

    2

    Position the wheel chocks behind the front and back of each trailer wheel to prevent the trailer from rolling when the trailer brakes are released.

    3

    Slide under the back of the trailer and locate the backing plate on the rear driver side trailer wheel. Shine a flashlight through the grooves of the backing plate to ensure that the brake shoes are completely applied to the inside of the brake drum. Move over to the passenger side wheel backing plate and make sure the passenger side trailer brakes are fully applied to the inside of the brake drum.

    4

    Release the brakes by pushing in on the trailer brake knob. Slide back under the back of the trailer and shine the flashlight through the driver side wheel backing plate to ensure that the brake shoes are no more than a quarter inch to a half inch from the inside of the brake drums. Repeat the same process for the rear passenger side wheel.

    5

    Re-apply the trailer brakes and remove the wheel chocks.

Kamis, 23 Februari 2012

How to Adjust Brake Pedal Height in a Ford Mustang

If you've taken your Mustang back to the shop numerous times because the brakes feel soft, and your mechanic still can't find anything wrong, try adjusting the brake pedal height. It might resolve the issue, and it doesn't cost you anything but a few minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Put the throw or rug on the front floor of the front seat. Set up the light on the passenger's side so it shines up under the dash.

    2

    Stop the engine before you test the free play in the pedal. Pump the brake twice to remove any vacuum. Press down lightly on the pedal with two fingers. You'll feel it stop abruptly; that's the master cylinder stopping the free play.

    3

    Measure the distance from the top of the brake pedal to the floor with a ruler. Take a second measurement after you depress the pedal. Find the difference between the two numbers and you've found the amount of freeplay in your pedal. About 1/8 inch is average. If your pedal feels mushy, the difference probably is greater.

    4

    Look at the back of the brake pedal until you see the point where it attaches to a push rod, which is the brake booster adjustment rod. Make a small dot with the liquid correction fluid on the bottom of the rod. This gives you a point of reference in case the rod turns when you loosen the nut.

    5

    Loosen the nut at the top of the rod. Rotate the rod. Use the dot to realign the rod back to its original reference point if it moves.

    6

    Turn the rod. When you turn it to the left, it tightens for less free play. Turning to the right does the opposite. You may need to use pliers to turn the rod.

    7

    Tighten the nut to secure the rod again. Test the pedal with finger pressure to ensure you don't have to adjust the pedal height even more. If it feels within range, test drive the car.

Selasa, 21 Februari 2012

How to Fix Squeaking Brakes

How to Fix Squeaking Brakes

If your brake pads make a metallic squeaking sound and you see no evidence of scoring on the rotors, chances are the noise is caused by dust. Some brake pads create more dust than others, based on their composition. Ceramic brakes are more expensive but produce the least amount of dust and noise. The easiest way to eliminate the squeak is to create a buffer between the brake pad and caliper. Do this by applying a thin coat of Disc Brake Quiet to the back of the brake pads.

Instructions

    1

    Spread an old towel on the ground in a well-ventilated area.

    2

    Lay the removed brake pad on a towel with the metal side facing up.

    3

    Put on the gloves and dust mask.

    4

    Shake the can of Disc Brake Quiet vigorously to mix its contents.

    5

    Hold the can 10 inches away from the brake pad and spray with a sweeping motion to coat the entire surface.

    6

    Let the brakes dry for 10 minutes.

    7

    Reinstall brakes.

Minggu, 19 Februari 2012

How to Change the Rotors on a Dodge Neon

Changing the rotors on your Dodge Neon can be done in the comfort of your own front yard. With the mechanical skills and a few automotive repair tools, you can save quite a bit of money on labor charges that local repair stations or dealerships would charge. Hone your skills and put your tools to work for you.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Neon on a level paved surface. Release the hood latch and apply the parking brake.

    2

    Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires. Open the hood and suck out half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder using the turkey baster and discard. Replace the master cylinder cap.

    3

    Loosen the lug nuts to the front wheel(s) with the breaking bar and a socket.

    4

    Raise the front end of the Neon with a floor jack and place the jack stands below the front frame rails to support the vehicle.

    5

    Remove the lug nuts and wheels.

    6

    Insert the large flathead screwdriver into the caliper porthole in the front of the caliper and compress the piston inward by prying the outboard pad against the rotor. Compress the piston in as far as it will go.

    7

    Locate and remove the caliper anchor bolts on the back of the knuckle. You can remove the caliper, pads, and caliper anchor as an assembled unit and save time if you're not replacing the pads. Support the caliper assembly to the coil spring with a bungee cord.

    8

    Remove the rotor. If there is a retaining ring located on a lug stud, cut if off with a pair of dikes discard. You do not need to replace it. If the rotor is stubbornly stuck to the hub, strike it with a hammer on the fins.

    9

    Clean the new rotor with brake clean spray. Be liberal with the spray and clean both sides to wash off the rust-preventative coating on them. Wipe dry with a shop rag and install onto the hub.

    10

    Place the caliper assembly over the rotor and replace and tighten the caliper anchor bolts.

    11

    Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts snugly. Repeat the procedure for the other side. Lower the Neon and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using the torque wrench and a socket.

    12

    Pump the foot brake pedal until it feels normal. This will restore pressure back to the compressed caliper pistons. Once pressure is restored to the caliper pistons, check and add DOT 3 brake fluid to the master cylinder and replace the cap. Close the hood, remove, remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake and test drive.

What Do Rotors Sit On?

What Do Rotors Sit On?

A working rotor can mean the difference between life and death. Part of the braking system, they are critical to the safe operation of every motor vehicle.

Function

    The rotor is part of the braking system that looks like a metal disk. Also known as the disc brake, it pushes against the brake pads, creating friction and slowing down the car. Without the rotor, your car would not slow or stop.

Location

    The rotor sits directly behind the tire, on the bearing hub. It is held up by the wheel stud mounts, the same studs that hold the tire. You cannot take off the rotor without removing the tire first.

Replacement

    The type of vehicle you drive determines when you need to replace the rotor. However, symptoms that your rotor and/or brake pads are failing include squeaking, grinding and pulsation. Have your brakes checked by a professional if you are experiencing any of these symptoms.

How to Install Disc Brakes for a 1997 Ford Explorer

Installing disc brakes on the Ford Explorer is easy and something that you should consider doing yourself. You can complete the project in your driveway in about 30 minutes for each wheel, without having to pay high labor costs at a garage. When you change the brake pads, look at the rotor surface carefully to make sure there is no damage on it. If you try to use rotors that are not smooth with new brake pads, the brakes will not be as effective. You will also have to replace them much sooner because they will wear prematurely.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Explorer on a level surface and turn off the key. Place a set of wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open the engine compartment and siphon enough of the brake fluid from the master cylinder to bring the level to the minimum mark. Put the fluid in the drain pan to recycle it when the project is complete.

    2

    Raise one of the front sides of the Explorer with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the SUV and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel with the lug wrench and take the wheel off the Ford. Place the c-clamp on the caliper, front to back, and tighten the clamp until the piston seats itself inside the caliper housing.

    3

    Remove the caliper bolts with the socket and ratchet. Pull it off the rotor. Remove the old brake pads and discard them. Insert the new pads and place the caliper on the mounting bracket. Tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Install the wheel on the Explorer and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Ford and lower the SUV to the ground. Repeat the process to the other front wheel.

    4

    Check the brake fluid after you complete the brake job and add fluid to it as necessary to bring it to the proper level. Pump the brake pedal until it is firm in order to seat the brake pads on the rotors.

Jumat, 17 Februari 2012

How to Replace GM Rear Brake Rotors

Rear brake rotors are integral to the brake system on all GM vehicles. If the rotors are warped or too thin to dissipate heat, they create all sorts of brake system problems, from shuddering to all-out brake failure. While it's a good idea to machine your rotors every time you replace your brake pads, once the rotors fall below their minimum thickness, you have no choice but to replace them. Anyone with basic automotive-repair skills can replace GM rear brake rotors in about an hour.

Instructions

    1

    Turn the rear lug nuts counterclockwise with your lug wrench until they're finger tight. Chock the right-front wheel to make sure the GM doesn't roll.

    2

    Lift the rear end of the GM with a floor jack and support it on jack stands, placed under the rear axle out by the spring perches. If the GM is front-wheel drive, place the jack stands under the rear frame on both sides. Remove the lug nuts and wheels by hand.

    3

    Rinse the rear brake rotors and calipers with brake cleaner, making sure the drop pan is under the brakes to catch the drippings or else you risk staining your driveway or garage floor.

    4

    Unbolt the brake caliper with your socket set, lift the caliper out of the mount and support it in the rear suspension so it does not hang from the brake line. Unbolt the mount with your socket set and lift the mount off the rotor by hand.

    5

    Slip the rotor off the rear hub and slide the new rotor on in its place. Thread one lug nut onto a stud to hold the rotor in place. Bolt the caliper mount and caliper back in place with your socket set.

    6

    Repeat steps 3 through 5 on the opposite side. Remove the two lug nuts and then reinstall the wheels and all the lug nuts by hand.

    7

    Lower the GM off the jack stands with the floor jack. Tighten the lug nuts with your torque wrench and then remove the wheel chocks from the right-front wheel.

How to Replace Brake Pads on a Ford F-350

How to Replace Brake Pads on a Ford F-350

The replacement of brake pads in your Ford F-350 pickup truck can be done in your driveway and will take about a half-hour for each wheel. When you change the pads, check the surfaces of your rotors to be sure they are smooth and that there is no scoring by worn brake pads, or you will have to replace the pads again soon.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood of the Ford F-350 and, with the turkey baster, siphon half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. The cylinder is on the back firewall on the driver's side of the truck. Put the fluid in the drain pan for recycling later.

    2

    Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Raise up the truck with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the truck and raise it to the frame. Loosen the lug nuts with the lug wrench and take off the wheel.

    3

    Remove the bolts from the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper from the mounting bracket. Remove the old brake pads and discard them. Insert the piston tool in the caliper and tighten the handle until the piston is inside the caliper housing.

    4

    Insert the new brake pads in the caliper. Place the caliper on the mounting bracket and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Put the wheel back on the hub and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the truck. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.

    5

    Check the brake fluid level when the brake pad replacement is complete and add to it as necessary. Pump the brake pedal until it feels firm in order to seat the brake pads on the rotors.

How to Replace the Brake Pads on a '95 Monte Carlo

How to Replace the Brake Pads on a '95 Monte Carlo

The 1995 Chevy Monte Carlo features a similar chassis and braking system to its GM cousins, the Chevy Lumina, the Pontiac Grand Prix, the Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and the Buick Regal. All featuring front brake pads and rotors, these vehicles also were offered with either rear brake pads and rotors or rear brake shoes and drums. These vehicles have a history of rear caliper problems, especially among owners who did not use the parking brake. The cables would seize, causing the rear pads to drag and prematurely wear out. GM later refined the rear disc brake system.

Instructions

Front Brake Pads Replacement

    1

    Make sure the Monte Carlo is parked on a level surface and then remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the reservoir on the driver's side firewall of the engine compartment using a clean baster utensil. Dispose of the fluid and then replace the reservoir cover.

    2

    Wedge the wheel bracing device behind one of the rear tires. Apply the parking brake.

    3

    Back the wheel nuts slightly away from the two front rims using the tire iron.

    4

    Hoist the front end of the Monte Carlo up with a jack and then support the car on jack stands. Completely remove the wheel nuts and tires.

    5

    Use the caliper piston compression clamp, placing it over the housing of the caliper to slowly squeeze the dual pistons inward until they bottom out evenly in the caliper housing.

    6

    Remove the two caliper slide bolts from the caliper using a combination wrench. Remove the caliper and pads assembly and use the bungee cord to hang the caliper to the front chassis. Be sure there is no tension on the brake hose.

    7

    Use the screwdriver to pry the retaining tabs on the outer pad located on the outer caliper housing. Pull the dual clipped inner pad upward away from the caliper pistons. Be sure the rubber boots on the caliper pistons are correctly seated and not protruding from the caliper pistons. Slightly lift the boots if necessary to release any trapped air inside of them.

    8

    Use the screwdriver to pry the old pad clips from the anchor mount and discard them with the old pads. Use the wire brush to clean off the rust and dirt on the mating surfaces of the caliper housing and the anchor mount.

    9

    Apply an even coat of caliper grease on the mating surfaces of both the caliper housing and the anchor mount. Apply a light coat of caliper grease to the brake pad tab seats on the replacement pad clips and install them onto the anchor mount.

    10

    Push the new inner brake pad retaining clips into the caliper pistons. Be sure the inner pad is seated flush against the pistons. Install the outer pad by gently prying the retaining clips over the outer caliper housing.

    11

    Remove the caliper from the bungee cord and then reinstall it over the brake rotor. Replace the caliper slide bolts and tighten them to 24-foot pounds with the foot-pound adjustable torque ratchet and a socket and then replace the brake pads on the other front wheel.

    12

    Replace the tires and wheel nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with the tire iron in an alternate star pattern so the rims are tight to the wheel hub. Lower the Monte Carlo slowly and then torque the wheel nuts employing the same star pattern with the foot-pound torquing wrench set at 100-foot pounds and a socket.

    13

    Pump the foot brake pedal until it feels firm and then refill the reservoir with brake fluid. Release the parking brake and remove the wheel bracing device before test driving the Monte Carlo.

Rear Brake Pads Replacement

    14

    Perform Steps 1 and 2 as illustrated in Section 1 except do not apply the parking brake, and place the wheel bracing device in front of one of the front tires.

    15

    Perform Steps 3 and 4 as described in Section 1 on the rear tires and rear axle of the Monte Carlo and then unfasten the bolt and washer attached to the cable support bracket on the rear caliper assembly with a combination wrench. This will allow the caliper to pivot up and down enough to remove the brake pads. Do not disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper parking brake lever.

    16

    Remove the lower sleeve bolt with a combination wrench and then pivot the caliper upward. Remove the outer pad as described in Section 1. The rear caliper has only one piston. Compress this piston using two pairs of adjustable pliers placed against the outer caliper housing and the backing plate tabs of the inner pad and then remove the inner brake pad by pulling out its retaining clip from the caliper piston.

    17

    Perform Steps 8 through 13 as illustrated in Section 1 to replace the old pad clips and brake pads and reverse the slight procedural differences in Section 2 to restore the rear braking system and wheel assemblies.

Rabu, 15 Februari 2012

How to Remove the Rotors on a 1999 Nissan Frontier

A 1999 Nissan Frontier comes equipped with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. The front disc brakes do the bulk of the braking, and eventually, the brake pads will wear down and will need to be replaced. When you replace the pads, you should also remove the front brake rotors (and you can either have the rotors turned or replaced entirely). Removing a rotor is a task that should take about 15 minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Place the head of the jack underneath the front crossmember on the Frontier and lift up the truck using the jack. Set the truck down on the jack stands, then remove the wheels, using the tire iron.

    2

    Remove the mounting bolts on the brake caliper, using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Lift the caliper off the rotor and hang the caliper off the front suspension, using the bungee cord.

    3

    Hold the brake rotor on both sides, using your hands, and lift it straight off the wheel hub.

Selasa, 14 Februari 2012

How to Replace the ABS Control Module on a 2003 Mustang V6

How to Replace the ABS Control Module on a 2003 Mustang V6

The 2003 Ford Mustang was equipped with a 3.8-liter V-6 in the base model. The 2003 Cobra, GT, and Mach 1 Mustangs were equipped with a 4.6-liter V-8. The brakes on the base 2003 Mustang were anti-lock brakes. The ABS control module on the 2003 Mustang is attached to the brake hydraulic control unit. Both parts work in synchronicity to ensure even braking throughout the entire vehicle. Changing the ABS module should be performed by someone with prior mechanical knowledge.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood of the Mustang. Loosen the air filter lid clamp by hand. Push the air filter lid back toward the rear of the vehicle to remove it from the filter housing. Remove the large air filter housing drum by pulling it free of the front air dam tube, exposing the hydraulic control unit (HCU), and ABS control module. Set the air filter housing unit out of your work area.

    2

    Place a drain pan beneath the car, directly under the hydraulic control module. Remove the four brake lines from the top of the module, with an open-end wrench. Remove the HCU mounting bolts from the bracket, with a ratchet and socket. Remove the hydraulic control unit from the engine compartment completely.

    3

    Remove the six mounting screws from the ABS control module to the HCU, using a Torx T-20 screwdriver. Use pliers on the Torx driver if the screws are oxidized or hard to turn. Remove the electrical connector from the ABS control module by hand. Use a small flat-head screwdriver to pry the connector tabs free, if needed.

    4

    Remove the ABS control module from the HCU by gently pulling it straight upward. Install the new ABS control module onto the HCU. Tighten all six screws until they are snug, with the T-20 screwdriver. Do not torque the screws or you may crack or break the ABS module.

    5

    Install the HCU on the mounting bracket. Insert and tighten the mounting bolts until they are snug. Turn the bolts 1/2-turn farther to equal the 13 foot-pounds of torque required for the control unit.

    6

    Install the brake lines back onto the HCU and tighten them snug, with an open-end wrench. Turn the line fittings 1/2-turn more to gain the 14 foot-pounds of torque needed for the brake lines.

    7

    Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the front of the Mustang with a jack, and place jack stands beneath the left and right sub-frames. Lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the front lug nuts, then remove the front wheels completely.

    8

    Open and fill the brake fluid reservoir to the "Full" mark, with D.O.T. 3 or higher grade fluid. Raise the rear of the Mustang with a jack, and place jack stands at both ends of the axle housing. The farther apart you place the stands, the greater the car's stability. Lower the Mustang onto the jack stands.

    9

    Ask your assistant to get into the Mustang. Open the bleeder screw on the backing plate of the passenger-side rear brake assembly. Turn the screw counterclockwise with an open-end wrench. Ask your assistant to gently push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Close the bleeder screw when the pedal is down, and instruct your assistant to release the brake pedal. Repeat this step three times to bleed the rear brake assembly.

    10

    Move to the driver's front brake caliper. Loosen the bleeder screw on the upper caliper area, with an open-end wrench. Ask your assistant to gently push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it. Tighten the bleeder screw when the pedal is down. Repeat this steps three times to bleed the front brake caliper. Check and fill your brake fluid reservoir to the "Full" mark.

    11

    Repeat Step 9 to bleed the driver's rear brake assembly. Repeat Step 10 to bleed the passenger front caliper. This method is called cross bleeding, and will remove all of the air from the entire system. The system was completely opened when you removed all four brake lines from the HCU.

    12

    Check your brake fluid level and top the reservoir off if necessary. Ask your assistant to gently pump the brake pedal 10 to 15 times. If the brake pedal does not become stiff after five pumps, tell your assistant to stop. Repeat the entire brake cross bleeding again.

How to Replace Rear Disc Brakes in a Chevy Cobalt

The Chevy Cobalt comes equipped with either disc or drum brakes in the rear. While they both provide adequate stopping power for a passenger car, disc brakes are much easier to replace. However, you will need a special tool called a spanner wrench caliper piston installer, available at most auto parts stores or the Chevy dealership.

Instructions

Removal of Brakes

    1

    Drain the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, if it's above the minimum allowable level. Use a syringe or suction gun and empty the brake fluid into an approved, sealed container. Dispose of properly according to your state's regulations.

    2

    Lift the car from the ground using a jack. Support evenly on all sides with jack stands. Keep children and animals away from the car while you replace the rear disc brakes.

    3

    Loosen the lug nuts with a torque wrench. Remove the wheels and tire assembly and set them aside face up to prevent scratching the wheels. Secure two lug nuts to opposing wheel studs to prevent the rotor from coming off the hub.

    4

    Fasten a large C-clamp over the brake caliper, making sure the ends of it press against the back of the caliper body and the outer brake pad. Compress the piston in 1 mm, then remove the C-clamp.

    5

    Take out the brake caliper guide pin bolts, using a wrench to secure the flats of the pins. Remove the caliper and secure it to the frame of the Chevy Cobalt with mechanical wire. Take the brake pads and brake pad retainers off the caliper mounting bracket.

    6

    Clean the areas of the caliper bracket that contact the brake pads. Inspect the bracket pins, paying particular attention to any restricted movement, looseness or broken boots. If you find any problems, replace the caliper guide pins and/or boots.

    7

    Retract the piston into the caliper bore. Use a spanner wrench caliper piston installer. This tool is available at most auto parts stores or the Chevy dealership.

Installation of Brakes

    8

    Lubricate the areas of the caliper bracket that make contact with the pad hardware. Use a high temperature silicone brake lubricant. Wipe of any excess grease.

    9

    Attach the new pad retainers to the brake caliper bracket. Install the new brake pads.

    10

    Lay the caliper in its proper position over the brake pads. Attach it to the caliper mounting bracket and install the caliper guide pins. Tighten the bolts with 25 ft-lb torque.

    11

    Unfasten the lug nuts that hold the rotors on the hub. Replace the wheel and tire assembly, and lower the Chevy Cobalt to the ground.

    12

    Pump the brake pedal to seat the brake pads. Push it down about 2/3 of the way then wait 15 seconds before pressing again. Replace any necessary brake fluid to bring it to the proper level.

How to Change 2002 Honda Civic Drum Brakes

How to Change 2002 Honda Civic Drum Brakes

Many vehicles use drum brakes and brake shoes on the rear wheels that work with the parking brake. A rear brake shoe assembly uses numerous levers and springs, and how you disassemble the shoes varies depending on the model. The process is slightly easier with a 2002 Honda Civic than with others because you can separate the shoes after removing them from the brake cylinder. This remains, however, a difficult process, and you should check with your mechanic before beginning.

Instructions

Accessing the Drum Brakes

    1

    Block the Civic's front wheels with wheel chocks or some form of heavy blocks that will prevent the car from moving.

    2

    Raise the rear end of the car with the floor jack, and support it on jack stands. Remove both of the rear wheels.

    3

    Pull the brake drum off of the wheel studs.

    4

    Clean off the brake assembly by applying a brake cleaner spray. Use a drip pan underneath the assembly to catch the brake cleaner residue.

Removing the Brake Shoes

    5

    Push on the retainer spring for each brake shoe by using a screwdriver, and turn its tension pin so it lines up with the vertical slot in the retainer spring; this will cause the spring to pop off.

    6

    Grasp onto both brake shoes, and pull them away from the backing plate as one assembly.

    7

    Unhook the return spring at the bottom of the shoes, and then unhook the cable connected to the parking brake lever by pulling back on the cable spring and keeping the spring compressed with diagonal cutting pliers (make sure you don't cut the spring).

    8

    Swing the parking brake lever away from the rear shoe; this causes the adjuster bolt clevis to come out of its groove within the rear shoe so you can separate the two shoes.

    9

    Disconnect the self-adjuster lever and its spring from the front brake shoe.

    10

    Pry the retainer clip off the brake lever with a flat screwdriver, and remove the lever from the rear shoe. Transfer the lever to the replacement rear shoe with its wave washer, and install a new clip; crimp the clip's ends together with needle nose pliers.

    11

    Clean the adjuster bolt with the brake cleaner, and then lubricate its ends and threads with high-temperature grease.

Installing the Brake Shoes

    12

    Connect the self-adjuster lever to the replacement front shoe--hook its spring onto the shoe's lower hole, and insert the lever pin into the upper hole. Connect the adjuster bolt's short clevis to the shoe's upper slot, and make sure the bolt catches the lever.

    13

    Connect the two shoes together using the upper return spring, and then pry the shoes' lower ends apart so you can insert the adjuster bolt's other end into the rear shoe's slot.

    14

    Lubricate the contact areas on the backing plate with high-temperature brake grease; there are six of these areas that are small oval bumps on the plate.

    15

    Compress and hold the parking brake cable spring with the cutting pliers, and connect the cable to the parking brake lever.

    16

    Install the brake shoes on the backing plate, making sure the shoes' upper ends engage with the pistons on the backing plate's upper wheel cylinder. Connect the shoes' lower ends together using the lower return spring.

After Installation

    17

    Install the brake drums back onto the hub flanges once you change the brakes for both wheels.

    18

    Adjust the brake shoes--remove the plug in the backing plate, insert a screwdriver into the hole and use the screwdriver to turn the star wheel. Turn it until the brake shoes drag against a spinning drum, and then back off the shoes until the dragging stops.

    19

    Connect the wheels back onto the car using your tire iron, and lower the car off the jack stands with the floor jack.

Senin, 13 Februari 2012

MK3 Volkswagen GTI Rear Brake Rotor Installation

If you notice your MK3 Volkswagen GTI no longer brakes effectively and makes a sharp squealing noise each time you depress the brakes, it's likely time to change the brake rotors. Installing a new brake rotors is a relatively straightforward process that can be done with the help of a few common tools. The average amateur mechanic will be able to remove and install a new brake rotor with relative ease in a few hours time.

Instructions

    1

    Park the MK3 Volkswagen GTI on a level surface. Jack the back of the car up and secure it in place on jack stands. Equip safety glasses before you begin to work on the brakes to prevent any eye irritation and damage.

    2

    Loosen and remove the wheel lugs using a lug wrench or tire iron. Firmly grip the wheel with both hands and pull it away from the car to access the braking system. Inspect the rotor. If you notice any severe scarring, wear, warping or rust, you need to replace it.

    3

    Grip firmly the cap located at the center of the wheel mounting with large water pump pliers and carefully pull it off. Try not to crush or damage it; if it's exceptionally stubborn, gently help it along with a small pry bar.

    4

    Unfasten and remove both the upper and lower caliper bolts using a 13 mm socket and socket wrench. Carefully pull the caliper off of its mounting brackets, paying extra attention not to kink or damage the brake fluid line. Suspend the caliper out of the way with a bungee cord. Never allow the caliper to hang freely by the brake fluid line.

    5

    Loosen and remove the two bolts securing the caliper mounting in place using an 8 mm Allen socket attached to an extended ratchet. Pull the caliper mounting off the rotor and set it aside.

    6

    Remove the cotter pin holding the rotor in place by prying it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Immediately discard the old cotter pin into the trash; do not reuse it. Grip the cotter pin nut with a water pump pliers and loosen it until hand tight and remove it by hand.

    7

    Grip the rotor with both hands and pull it away from the axle plate. If it's extremely stubborn, strike the back of the rotor with a rubber mallet to help it along. Be careful not to allow it fall onto the ground.

    8

    Clean the new rotor with brakes parts cleaner spray. Wipe away any excess cleaner with a clean shop rag. Slide the new rotor onto the wheel mounting until it rests evenly against the axle plate. Screw the cotter pin nut into place and put in a new cotter pin to hold the rotor in place.

    9

    Reassemble the brake system in the reverse order of removal. Remount the wheel and secure it in place with wheel lugs. Jack up the car, remove the jack stands and lower the car to the ground.

Minggu, 12 Februari 2012

How to Remove the Brake Light Switch on a 2001 Silverado

How to Remove the Brake Light Switch on a 2001 Silverado

Any check of your vehicle's brake lights system should begin with an inspection of the fuses. If they are in working order and you have already inspected the light bulbs in the tail light housings, the brake light switch may be the culprit. The switch is located on the upper left side of the brake pedal.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable using the small adjustable wrench.

    2

    Engage the parking brake, and place the gear shift selector as far down as possible. Grasp the plastic dash panel trim that surrounds the instrument cluster, and carefully pull it away from the dash panel.

    3

    Remove the two screws in the bottom corners of the left side under dash panel. Grasp the panel at the top and pull it outward to release the clips fastening it to the dash panel.

    4

    Remove the air conditioning duct behind the now removed lower dash panel by pulling apart the snap-together connecting tab at its left end and sliding the duct out.

    5

    Unplug the electrical connector from the square white switch located on the top left side of the brake pedal arm by grasping it around the plastic body and pulling it away from the switch.

    6

    Using the screwdriver pry up on the clip holding the brake light switch to the brake pedal and swing it away.

    7

    Slide the switch off the pin on the brake pedal and remove it.

    8

    Installation is the reverse of removal.

How to Replace Rear Brakes on a 1998 Ford Windstar

Good brake pads in your 1998 Ford Windstar are necessary for the brake system to maintain breaking power. As a rule of thumb, you might want to replace the brake pads whenever the lining or friction material has become as thick as the backboard they mount on. The rear brakes on your Windstar minivan are readily accessible and you can replace them. However, the job requires attention to detail. The following procedure applies to models equipped with rear disc brakes.

Instructions

Removing the Rear Brake Pads

    1

    Open the hood and remove the lid off the brake master cylinder reservoir and remove half the brake fluid into a container that can be sealed. You will do this for later recycling. Use a hand siphon pump and leave the reservoir lid loose. The brake master cylinder is mounted on the brake booster, which is a drum-like component right in front of the driver, inside the engine compartment.

    2

    Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheel assemblies with a lug wrench, shift the transmission to park and release the parking brake.

    3

    Lift the rear of your Ford Windstar with a floor jack and place a safety stand under the frame on each side of the rear of the vehicle for support. After this is done, lower the minivan.

    4

    Remove both rear wheel assemblies and work on one brake assembly at a time. This way you may use the other assembly as visual reference during the reassembly process, if necessary.

    5

    Place a large C-clamp over the brake caliper with the clamp screw against the outboard brake pad, which is facing you. Slowly turn the clamp screw against the outboard brake pad to push the caliper piston at the back of the caliper into its bore and then remove the clamp.

    6

    Unfasten the two caliper mounting bolts located behind the caliper assembly with a ratchet and socket. Remove the bolts and carefully guide the caliper off the mounting bracket and brake rotor. Secure the caliper to a near suspension component with heavy wire to avoid damage to the brake hose connected to the caliper.

    7

    Pry off the slippers or rectangular caps from each side of the caliper mounting frame with a standard screwdriver.

    8

    Remove the brake pads from the caliper by hand.

Installing the New Rear Brake Pads

    9

    Clean the brake caliper, caliper mounting bracket, brake rotor and caliper mounting bolts with brake parts cleaner and wipe off the solution with lint-free towels.

    10

    Snap new slippers on the caliper bracket assembly by hand.

    11

    Install the new brake pads on the brake caliper and place the caliper assembly on the caliper mounting frame aligning the mounting bolt holes on the caliper and the holes on the mounting bracket. If the holes do not align, verify the brake pads are seating properly on the caliper bracket.

    12

    Coat the caliper mounting bolts with silicone brake caliper grease and dielectric compound D7AZ-19A331-A or an equivalent silicone compound that meets Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A. Install the caliper bolts finger tight and tighten the bolts to 14 foot-pounds (20 Nm) with a torque wrench.

    13

    Replace the set of brake pads on the opposite rear wheel starting with step 5 of the previous section through step 4 of this section.

    14

    Mount both rear wheels on the hubs and install the lug nuts snugly. Lower your Windstar and finish tightening the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

    15

    Add new brake fluid to the brake master cylinder reservoir to bring the level up to the "Full" mark, if necessary. Tighten the reservoir cap.

    16

    Pump the brake pedal slowly several times to adjust the new brake pads to the brake rotor. Check the fluid level on the brake master cylinder reservoir and add more fluid if necessary. Close the hood.

How to Change a Chevy Brake Rotor

How to Change a Chevy Brake Rotor

Changing a brake rotor is a simple vehicle maintenance job. It takes just a little more work than that of changing a tire. This task can pay big dividends; a new, smooth rotor will eliminating excessive wear on the brake pads and provide smoother, safer braking. A do-it-yourself mechanic can feel confident in undertaking this project by following the steps below.

Instructions

    1

    Find level ground on which to work. Place a chock behind each of the tires that are on the opposite end of the vehicle on which you will be working.

    2

    Set the emergency brake, jack the vehicle up, and secure it by placing two jack stands under the axle. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel, take the wheel and tire off and set aside.

    3

    Open the hood, locate the brake master cylinder and remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir.

    4

    Locate the brake caliper (see top photo). Most Chevy calipers are held in place by 2 bolts with Allen heads. The head of the bolt will be facing inside, towards the vehicle's axle. Use an Allen wrench and take these bolts off. Remove the caliper by sliding it from off the rotor and secure it out of the way.

    5

    Grab the rotor by the outside edges and pull it toward you as shown in the picture above. It will slide off of the hub.

    6

    Slide the new rotor into place, making sure it is on flush against the hub. Reattach the brake caliper by sliding it back into place on the rotor, lining up the sets of holes for the bolts, and securely fastening the Allen bolts.

    7

    Mount the tire and wheel back onto the hub and rotor and fasten the lug nuts to the torque specified by the manufacturer. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.

    8

    Remove the chocks from behind the tires, put the cap back on the master cylinder, and you are finished.

Sabtu, 11 Februari 2012

How to Repair a Neutral Safety Switch in Manual Transmission Vehicles

The neutral safety switch is located under the clutch on all vehicles that have manual transmissions. The are designed to prevent the car from being started while still in gear. Some models are adjustable and can be tightened or loosened to make them work. Others must be replaced as a unit. Their are several steps to checking out the neutral safety switch on your vehicle. The following is assuming you have a shop or garage that you can work in.

Instructions

    1

    Pull your vehicle into the shop/garage. Shut of the vehicle and pull the parking brake. Make sure the vehicle is out of gear. Push the seat back as far as it will go do give yourself as much work area as possible.

    2

    Check the fuse for the safety switch. If the fuse is bad, you can replace the fuse and be finished with your work. If not, the next step is to locate the switch under the clutch. There are two screws holding the safety switch to the floor board. They are usually Phillips screws, but bring both just in case. If the mount screws are loose, tightened them. Check the engine from the drivers seat and see if that fixed the problem.

    3

    Lie back under the dash and test the continuity of the wires going to and coming from the safety switch. This will need to be done with a digital volt/ohm reader. If one wire has infinite ohms, that wire needs to be replaced. With the key on, both wires should read low ohms and 12 volts. Check the safety switch for placement and adjustment. If the lock ring is loose, this will cause erratic operating of the switch. Tighten the lock ring and check from the driver's seat if the safety switch is operating correctly.

    4

    Check the vehicles service manual for the correct distance between the clutch pedal and the sensor. Adjust as needed and you are finished.

How to Replace the Disc Brakes on a 2004 Chevy Suburban 4x4

How to Replace the Disc Brakes on a 2004 Chevy Suburban 4x4

The 2004 Chevy Suburban 4x4's front disc brake pads wear faster than the back brake pads. Replacing the pads is not a difficult task. You can save money by doing the job yourself in your own driveway rather than paying for a mechanic to replace the disc pads.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Suburban on a level surface, turn off the ignition and place the wheel chocks behind the rear tires. Open and secure the vehicle's hood. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder and properly recycle it. The master cylinder is on the back wall inside the engine compartment. Raise the vehicle with the automobile jack and place a jack stand under it, near the jacking point. Raise the jack stand up to the frame.

    2

    Remove the wheel from the side you are starting with using the lug wrench to remove the lug nuts.

    3

    Remove the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the brake caliper retaining pins. They are located on the backside of the brake caliper.

    4

    Inspect the wheel rotor for any visible signs of damage, such as grooving.

    5

    Remove the old brake pads from the caliper. Push the caliper piston back into the caliper housing until it seats all the way inside. Put the new brake pads into place.

    6

    Replace the caliper back onto the wheel assembly and lock it into place by tightening the caliper retaining pins using a socket and ratchet. Put the wheel back on the Suburban and remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle back to the ground. Repeat the process for the other wheel.

    7

    Depress the brake pedal several times after you have completed both sides to seat the caliper pistons against the brake pads. The brake pedal will feel firm when you are done. Check the fluid level in the master brake cylinder and add to it, as needed.

Jumat, 10 Februari 2012

How to Change a Brake Check Valve on a 94 Jeep Wrangler

How to Change a Brake Check Valve on a 94 Jeep Wrangler

Chrysler Jeep has produced the Wrangler version of its famous off-road vehicle since 1987. The 1994 Wrangler has the YJ designation and is available with either an inline four cylinder or inline six cylinder engine. The hydraulic system is separated into two circuits to maintain braking capability if a brake line leaks in one circuit. The master cylinder has a reservoir for each circuit. A sensor in the check valve assembly signals a warning light if one or the other circuit fails. The check valve or proportioning valve balances front and rear braking in sudden stops and contains a sensor and switch to warn of failure of a hydraulic circuit.

Instructions

Remove the Valve

    1

    Locate the combination or check valve under the master cylinder. Position a plastic container under the valve to catch brake fluid and be sure to cover all painted surfaces under and around the valve with plastic or newspapers in case some brake fluid spills.

    2

    Loosen and disconnect the hydraulic lines from the valve using a wrench. Immediately plug the lines with plastic bags to prevent dirt or other contaminants entering they hydraulic system.

    3

    Pull the electrical connector from the front of the valve body. This is the pressure differential switch.

    4

    Loosen and remove the bolt that attaches the valve to the mounting bracket. Remove the valve from the engine compartment.

Install a Valve

    5

    Position the valve in place on the mounting bracket and install and tighten the mounting bolts with a wrench.

    6

    Attach the electrical connector to the pressure differential switch.

    7

    Attach the hydraulic lines to the valve body and tighten with a wrench.

Bleed the Hydraulics

    8

    Apply the brakes several times with the engine off to get rid of any residual vacuum in the lines.

    9

    Pull back the clips on the master cylinder and remove the cover. Fill the cylinder with brake fluid and put the cover back on and do up the clips.

    10

    Loosen the lug nuts on all four wheels with a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle up with a jack and lower onto jack stands. Finish removing the lug nuts on all four wheels and remove the wheels.

    11

    Loosen the bleeder valve slightly on the right rear wheel then tighten it so it is just snug. Put the rubber tube on the end of the bleeder valve and put the open end of the tube in the plastic container. Make sure there is a half inch or so of brake fluid in the container. Get an assistant to pump the brakes several times then hold the brake pedal down. Open the bleeder valve just slightly and observe the fluid running out the tube. Air bubbles should come out of the tube with the fluid. When the fluid slows down close off the valve with a wrench. Tighten the bleeder valve.

    12

    Go to the left rear wheel and repeat the bleeding procedure, watching for air bubbles and closing the valve again when the fluid and air bubbles stop coming out. Go next to the right front wheel and finish with the left front wheel. Check the fluid in the master cylinder each time and top it up as required with brake fluid. At the end of this operation the brake pedal should feel solid, not squishy or spongy.

How to Replace Rear Brake Calipers

How to Replace Rear Brake Calipers

Brake calipers are large pistons that are powered by a vehicle's hydraulic power system. When a driver activates the brake, the hydraulic system expands the piston, causing the brake pads to sandwich the brake rotor, causing a vehicle's wheels to stop spinning. Calipers generally last the lifetime of a vehicle, but occasionally, due to a lemon part or a car accident, the calipers need to be replaced. Replacing rear calipers, or any automotive caliper, is recommended for persons with automotive experience.

Instructions

    1

    Place blocks under the front tires on both side to prevent the vehicle from rolling while lifted. Use the breaker bar and lug socket to break loose the lugs on the rear wheels. Roll the hydraulic lift under the rear of the vehicle and lift on a structural point. Place the jack stands under structure points and lower the lift until the weight of the vehicle is distributed between the lift and the jack stands.

    2

    Remove the lugs from the hub bolts and place inside the wheels. Push the wheels underneath the vehicle for extra security. Use the hex key set to remove the caliper retaining bolts and pull the caliper away from the rear rotors. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.

    3

    Pop open the hood and locate the brake fluid container. Remove the cap and use the cable clamps to close the caliper fluid line running out of the caliper, usually at the top. Pull the fluid line off of the caliper by removing the retainer clip with a pair of pliers--a little fluid should leak from the line. Attach the fluid line to the new caliper and ensure it is secure. Reinstall the retainer clip over the fluid line after being attached.

    4

    Place the brake pads into the new caliper and secure them with the pad clips. Use the C-clamp to push the piston open, if necessary. Slide the caliper back onto the rear rotor and secure with the retainer bolts. Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lugs. Remove the jack stands and drop the lift. Check your brake fluid level and add any if necessary, then reattach the brake fluid cap.

Kamis, 09 Februari 2012

How to Change the Front Brakes on a '92 Toyota Pickup

How to Change the Front Brakes on a '92 Toyota Pickup

Disc brakes are not only the safest and strongest brakes available for the 1992 Toyota pickup, they are also the cheapest and easiest to replace for the at-home mechanic. This is one reason why do-it-yourself mechanics are so happy with the Toyota pickup: It came equipped with four-wheel disc brakes. When it does come time to change them, all four tires can be done in about 2 hours.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen all the lug nuts one full rotation counterclockwise with the tire iron.

    2

    Place the floor jack underneath the vehicle frame behind the driver-side front tire. Raise that side of the front of the pickup until the front tire is 2 inches off the ground. Set the jack stand under the frame and lower the pickup onto the jack stand. Remove the loosened lug nuts and remove the tire. Repeat the process for the opposite side of the front of the pickup.

    3

    Loosen the bolt on the bottom of the brake caliper mounting bracket with the socket wrench. The mounting bracket is the bracket that is attached to the rotor behind the wheel.

    4

    Pull the brake pads out of the bracket while you lift the bracket bottom into the air. The pads will simply pull out.

    5

    Compress the brake caliper cylinder in the center of the bracket by pressing it in with your fingers or thumbs. If the caliper does not compress by hand, compress it with the C-clamp by setting the stationary end of the clamp against the rear of the bracket and the movable end against the cylinder, then tightening the clamp until the caliper cylinder is flush with the bracket.

    6

    Place the new brake pads in to the slots the old ones were in. They will fit easily now that the caliper is pressed in.

    7

    Bolt the caliper bracket back down to the rotor and set the tire on the rotor. Finger tighten all of the lug nuts and lower the vehicle. Tighten all of the lug nuts with the tire iron.

How to Fix Rear Brakes

How to Fix Rear Brakes

Brakes are the most important safety features on any car. Although rear brakes generally last about twice as long as front pads and rotors, their maintenance is just as vital. Thus, it is important to periodically check rear brakes and change them when worn. You can save a lot of time and money by changing the brakes at home.

Instructions

    1

    Identify the major components of the rear braking system. These include the rotor, pads, disc mount screw and brake caliper mount. Not all cars have a disc mount screw.

    2

    Remove the brake caliper mount. Use a socket wrench to loosen the mount bolts, turning counterclockwise. Then, remove the bolts and lift the caliper off the mount. Check the caliper slides to make sure they move freely inside the mount. If they do not, the mount will need to be replaced. With the caliper out the way, the pads should come off easily.

    3

    Use a screwdriver to remove the disc mount screw, if one is present. Rap the rotor with the socket wrench to knock loose any rust that may have built up between the bearing hub and the rotor. The rotor is heavy, so use both hands to lift it off the wheel hub. Do not drop it.

    4

    Hold the new rotor next to the old one. They should be exactly the same size. Clean the wheel hub surface and put the new rotor in place. Reinstall the screw.

    5

    Reset the brake caliper using a rear caliper reset tool. This tool is designed to wind the piston back into position, which allows the pads to fit. A clamp will not compress the brake caliper. A reset too is necessary.

    6

    Reattach the caliper mount and replace the pads. Use the exact same type of pads as those being removed to make sure they fit correctly. Put the brake caliper back in place and tighten the caliper mount bolts.

    7

    Bleed the brake system to remove any air from the system.

How to Remove Rear Drum Brakes on a Ford Ranger

How to Remove Rear Drum Brakes on a Ford Ranger

The rear brakes on a Ford Ranger pickup consist of three main parts, the brake drum, the brake shoes and the wheel cylinder. The brake drum is attached to the rear axle and rotates along with the rear wheels and tires. A pair of brake shoes sits inside each brake drum, one facing forward and one facing rearward. The wheel cylinder is bolted to the brake backing plate and sits in between the two brake shoes. When the driver presses down on the brake pedal, hydraulic pressure is sent from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinder. A piston on each side of the wheel cylinder, presses the brake shoes against the brake drum, which in turn slows down the vehicle. The drum brakes must be disassembled to replace the rear axle or wheel bearings.

Instructions

Removing Rear Brake Drums

    1

    Raise the vehicle using a floor jack.

    2

    Support with jack stands placed underneath the rear axle.

    3

    Unscrew all the lug nuts on both rear wheels and tires using a lug wrench.

    4

    Pull both wheels and tires off the lug studs.

    5

    Slide the brake drums off the wheels studs. If this is difficult try rocking the drum front to back until the drum frees itself.

Removing the Rear Brake Shoes

    6

    Pull the two actuating springs off the front brake shoe using brake-spring pliers.

    7

    Compress the mounting spring on the front brake shoe, using a brake-spring tool and rotate it a quarter turn to disengage it from the steel clip.

    8

    Pull the front brake shoe away from the backing plate.

    9

    Pull the actuating spring off the rear brake shoe, using a brake-spring pliers.

    10

    Compress the mounting spring on the rear brake shoe. As with the front brake shoe, use a brake spring tool to disengage the shoe from the clip.

    11

    Pull the rear brake shoe away from the brake backing plate and remove it from the vehicle.

Removing the Wheel Cylinders

    12

    Unscrew the brake-line fitting from the wheel cylinder using a line wrench. The brake-line fitting will be located on the inboard side of the brake backing plate. Loosen and disconnect it by turning it counterclockwise.

    13

    Unscrew the two mounting bolts that secure the wheel cylinder to the brake backing plate, using a socket.

    14

    Pull the wheel cylinder away from the brake backing plate.

How to Change the Brakes on a 1996 Honda Accord

How to Change the Brakes on a 1996 Honda Accord

The 1996 Honda Accord was well known for the acceleration provided by its powerful V6 engine. It also was acclaimed for a great ride and expressive steering. Anti-lock brakes were an option of limited availability, but disc brakes at all four wheels were standard. These brakes are not hard to change at home. The job for all four tires can take as little as 2 hours or less.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the lug nuts on your Accord's front wheels or rear wheels, using the tire iron. Place the wood blocks behind the rear tires if you're changing the front brakes or in front of the front tires if you're changing the rear brakes.

    2

    Using the jack, raise the front of the Accord if you're changing the front brakes or the rear of the Accord if you're changing the rear brakes. Don't raise both the front and the rear of the Accord at the same time. Raise the car high enough that the tires leave the ground and you can set the jack stands under the axle or under the frame rails. Lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the loosened lug nuts and wheels.

    3

    Remove the brake caliper mounting bracket from the rotor on one side of the car by removing the bolts that attach it to the rotor, using the socket wrench. Hang the bracket in the wheel well using the rope, string or wire to prevent any strain on the brake line.

    4

    Slide the brake pads out of the bracket.

    5

    Compress the brake caliper with the C-clamp by clamping the C-clamp onto the mounting bracket. Compress the cylinder until it is flush with the bracket.

    6

    Install the new brake pads by sliding them into the same space that the original pads were in.

    7

    Re-bolt the bracket to the rotor; replace the wheel on the hub and hand tighten the lug nuts.

    8

    Repeat Steps 3 through 6 on the other side of the car. Then lower the vehicle and tighten all of the lugs again with the tire iron.

    9

    Repeat the entire process, Steps 1 through 8, on the opposite end of the car as before, if necessary.

Rabu, 08 Februari 2012

Toyota 4-Runner Rotor Removal

Toyota 4-Runner Rotor Removal

Over time, the brakes on your Toyota 4-Runner will wear down and need replacing. The rotors are the most expensive part of the braking system, but with some basic mechanical skills, you can remove them yourself, saving you a sizable vehicle repair bill.

Preparation

    Park your truck on a completely flat surface and engage the parking brake to ensure the truck will not move. Use the Toyota-supplied jack to lift up the appropriate wheel for the rotor you are removing. If you have access to jack stands, slide them underneath the axle for added safety. Remove the six lug nuts using the Toyota lug wrench, and take off the wheels to expose the braking hub.

Removal: Part 1

    Attach a 12 mm socket to an impact wrench and remove the six bolts that hold the hub cover on. There will be six cone washers with a slit that are located around the hub bolts. Insert a tapered punch into the slit and gently tap the punch with a hammer. The pressure will cause the cone washers to expand and pop out. Repeat this process for every cone washer.

    At the end of the hub there will be a hub dust cap that is held on with friction. Insert a flathead screwdriver behind the hub and gently pry it off to expose the end of the axle. Equip a 12 mm socket to a ratchet and remove the bolt and washer from the end of the axle.

Removal: Part 2

    Take two 8 mm bolts and thread them into two opposite holes on the hub cover. Pull on the bolts with equal pressure to remove the hub cover. After the hub cover is removed, the axle and retaining nuts will be exposed. Use a 2-1/8-inch socket or crescent wrench to remove the two large retaining nuts. Remove the washer and bearing that is located behind the retaining nuts using a flat head screwdriver to gently pry them out. Attach a 17 mm socket to a ratchet and remove the two 17 mm bolts that are located on the back of the brake caliper. Slide the caliper off and move it out of the way, ensuring that the brake line is not stretched or damaged. Use a small cardboard box to support the caliper to prevent it from touching the ground and getting damaged. The brake rotor should now be free, and it can gently be pulled off the axle.

Senin, 06 Februari 2012

How to Remove a 1996 Ford Taurus Front Rotor

The Ford Taurus has lived a rather roller-coaster-like life. It began as one of the most advanced and modern cars of its time, later it shifted to an oval-obsessed monster, then it became downright bland and, finally, Ford deleted it altogether in 2006. In 2008, however, the Taurus returned to replace its replacement the Five Hundred and in 2010 it became a stylish and unique vehicle again. The 1996 Taurus was the first year of the oval-obsessed generation. The 1996 Taurus came standard with front disc brakes, which used a ventilated rotor. When replacing the Tauruss front rotors, it is best to put new pads on at the same time to assure long rotor life.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Open the Tauruss hood and remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. Siphon out about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a clean turkey baster and transfer the fluid to a small container.

    2

    Loosen the front lug nuts with a ratchet and socket. Raise the front of the Ford with a floor jack and position jack stands under the vehicles subframe. Lower the Taurus onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull the front wheels off the vehicle.

    3

    Remove the two caliper-retaining bolts with a ratchet and socket, and pull the caliper off the caliper bracket. Hang the caliper from a nearby suspension component with a bungee strap.

    4

    Pull both brake pads out of the caliper bracket and position the inner brake pad inside the caliper, so it touches the calipers piston. Position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper, so the screw part touches the inner brake pad and the fixed part touches the rear of the caliper. Tighten the C-clamp until it stops tightening to retract the caliper piston. Loosen and remove the C-clamp.

    5

    Remove the two caliper bracket-retaining bolts and pull the caliper bracket off the Tauruss steering knuckle. Pull the caliper pins from the caliper bracket, using caution as not to break the rubber boot on each caliper pin.

    6

    Wipe the old grease off the caliper pins with a clean, lint-free cloth. Apply a generous coat of new disc brake grease to the pins and reinsert them into the holes in the caliper bracket. Guide the rubber boot on each pin toward the caliper bracket so each boot seats in its respective groove in the bracket.

    7

    Pull the rotor off the Tauruss front hub. If the rotor does not pull off easily, lightly tap the rear of it with a rubber mallet to free it.

    8

    Repeat Steps 3 through 7 to remove the rotor on the other side of the Taurus.

Installation

    9

    Install a new rotor onto the Tauruss front hub.

    10

    Set the caliper bracket back onto the Tauruss steering knuckle and hand-tighten the two caliper bracket-retaining bolts. Tighten the caliper bracket-retaining bolts from 65 to 87 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

    11

    Press new anti-rattle shims included with the new pads onto the rear of the new brake pads. Slide the new brake pads into the caliper bracket.

    12

    Remove the caliper from the bungee strap and set it back onto the caliper bracket. Hand-tighten the caliper bolts, then torque them from 23 to 28 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

    13

    Repeat Steps 1 through 4 to install the rotor on the other side of the Taurus.

    14

    Reinstall the front wheels onto the Taurus and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the vehicle off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the Ford to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscrossing pattern from 85 to 105 foot-pounds.

    15

    Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and add DOT3 brake fluid until the level reaches the Max line on the reservoir. Tighten the master cylinder reservoir cap back onto the master cylinder reservoir.

    16

    Take the small container with old brake fluid to a local automotive fluid recycling center. Many auto parts stores take old brake fluid free of charge.

How to Install Rotors on a Toyota Land Cruiser

Though it may seem like a big job, changing the brake rotors on your Toyota Land Cruiser can be done fairly easily. If you have all of the necessary tools and replacement parts, you can complete this entire job in about an hour and save a decent amount of money by not taking it to the shop. Just make sure you start with replacement rotors that are designed specifically for your model year of the Land Cruiser.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Land Cruiser on a flat surface and put it in "Park." Make sure the steering column is not locked.

    2

    Put one wheel chock behind each of the front tires.

    3

    Slide your floor jack under a solid section of the rear frame and jack the vehicle up high enough to allow you to slide two jack stands underneath it. Put one jack stand under each side of the rear frame, then slowly lower the vehicle off the jack and onto the stands. Pull the jack away from the car.

    4

    Remove all of the lug nuts on each of the two rear wheels with a tire iron, then pull both wheels off to expose the rotors and calipers.

    5

    Locate the two large bolts on the back of each brake caliper, then remove all four of these bolts with a socket wrench. Do not pull the calipers off of the caliper mounts right away.

    6

    Take some twine, nylon ties, twist ties or some other type of tie and strap each of the loose calipers to the underside of the car frame. This is just temporary, and is only to make sure that the calipers do not dangle by the brake lines, which can damage them.

    7

    Pull both brake pads out of each of the two rear caliper mounts.

    8

    Locate the two mounting bolts on the back of each caliper mount, then remove these with a socket wrench. Pull the mounts off of the rotors when the bolts have been removed.

    9

    Pull both rear rotors off the wheel spindles.

    10

    Slide two of the new rotors onto the two rear wheel spindles.

    11

    Reinstall the caliper mounts. These should go on in roughly the same place as they were installed on the old rotors. Tighten down the original bolts with a socket wrench.

    12

    Replace the four brake pads in the caliper mounts. If you're also switching to new brake pads at this time, use those instead.

    13

    Untie each caliper from the frame one at a time and reinstall them on top of the caliper mounts using the original bolts and your socket wrench. Make sure the bolts are installed tightly.

    14

    Replace both of the rear wheels and tighten down all of their lug nuts using your tire iron.

    15

    Put the floor jack back under the rear end and jack the vehicle up until it lifts off of the jack stands. Pull the jack stands out and slowly release the pressure on the jack until all four wheels are back on the ground.

    16

    Move the wheel chocks from the front wheels to the rear wheels and repeat this entire process on the front end rotors.

How to Change the Brakes on a 2001 Ford Focus

How to Change the Brakes on a 2001 Ford Focus

If you hear squeaking, screeching, or grinding noises coming from your Ford Focus 2001, you probably need to change your brakes. This is relatively easy procedure that you can do in your own driveway. The Ford Focus 2001 is a compact vehicle that comes in three styles: hatchback, sedan or station wagon. The brakes system is similar on all three styles. It can have a four or five speed transmission, front wheel drive, driver and passenger airbags, and has an EPA fuel economy between 25-36 mpg.

Instructions

    1

    Put your Ford Focus in "Park" and lift up your emergency brake. The car engine should be off.

    2

    Insert the jack beneath the car under the lift area, which is the driver's front wheel area. You should feel a "lip" of reinforced metal for you to place your jack. Jack the car up by turning the crank in a clockwise direction.

    3

    Loosen the lug nuts using your tire iron.

    4

    Remove the tire and lay it down under the car to break a fall in case the jack drops the car.

    5

    Take off the top bolt on the caliper. The caliper should move away from the rotor. Take off the brake pads.

    6

    Clamp a C-clamp on the caliper. One side should lay on the back of the caliper and the other end will push against the brake piston.

    7

    Install the new brake pads on the caliper until it looks secure. The brake pads are made so that you can't install them incorrectly. Move the caliper across the rotor to tighten it.

    8

    Place the top bolt back on and tighten it.

    9

    Replace the wheel and wheel nuts.

    10

    Lower your Ford Focus back to the ground. You are now ready to start driving it.

Minggu, 05 Februari 2012

How to Troubleshoot Brake Drum Problems

How to Troubleshoot Brake Drum Problems

Cars and trucks have relied on drum brakes from the inception of motorized vehicles. Disc brakes have been introduced since then, but vehicles are still being made with drum brake technology on one or multiple axles. Know how to troubleshoot brake drum problems to protect your drum brake shoes. Diagnose brake drum problems quickly, and get a long life out of regularly replaced brake shoes.

Instructions

    1

    Inspect drum brakes when sounds come from the brakes when braking or pedal reaction when applying pressure on the pedal. A spongy pedal feels like stepping on a cloud instead of the firm resistance of a properly working brake system.

    2

    'Break' the lug nuts on one wheel. Breaking a lug nut refers to loosening, but not removing, the lug nut from the wheel stud. Break all of the wheel lugs before lifting the vehicle. Lift the vehicle off the ground, so the wheel can be removed, exposing the drum brake.

    3

    Remove the brake drum, using a hammer to tap the back edge of the drum brake housing. Hitting the brake drum will move it off the wheel studs. Move around the edge of the brake drum, tapping it with a hammer until the hub comes free. Remove the hub from the axle, and bring it to a work bench for inspection.

    4

    Check the brake drum lining for scoring and grooves, which indicate the brake shoes have worn unevenly. This reduces the stopping power of drum brakes and can result in a spongy brake pedal. These grooves may also be producing the noise when the brakes are applied, as the pressure is grinding the metal surface of the lining.

    5

    Measure the thickness of drum brake linings in several locations to determine its thickness. A perfectly smooth surface should have a thickness of no less than 1/8". Repeat the inspection on the other drum brake linings.

Jumat, 03 Februari 2012

How to Install Camshaft Timing

You don't have to take your vehicle to a professional mechanic in order to install camshaft timing. But you will need to carefully remove various mechanisms within the car in order to finish the job correctly, without damaging your engine. Regardless of whether you're changing your timing out of a desire for better performance or you're installing it due to cam malfunction, the procedure isn't difficult to complete.

Instructions

    1

    Drain the coolant in your engine. Use the screwdriver to take out the radiator fan shroud. Take off the drive belts. Detach the radiator hoses from the water pump when the coolant is fully drained. Lift and take out the radiator. Remove the brackets that are attached to the water pump. Take out the belt pulleys on the crankshaft and water pump. Remove anything that is connected to the timing cover. Utilize the balancer remover to take off the balancer. Lift and take off the timing cover.

    2

    Unscrew the valve covers with your finger tips. Detach the valve covers. Take off the push rods then remove the intake manifold and carburetor. Detach then raise the camshaft lifters. Take off the timing chain and sprocket. Put back on the cam sprocket. Carefully push forward on the camshaft. Lift it from the engine block.

    3

    Put assembly lube liberally on the distributor gear. Also apply it to the bearing journal and cam lobe. Support the camshaft with both of your hands. Insert the camshaft back into the engine block. Put the name of the came into the timing sprocket. Rotate the camshaft to the right. Take out the cam sprocket. Put in the timing chain. Add more assembly lube to the center of the camshaft's lifters.

    4

    Put back in the engine mechanisms, but employ the reverse order utilized for disassembly. Use a brand new front seal for the timing cover. Use torque specs when tightening the bolts and fasteners. Change the oil. Start the engine.

How to Flare a Stainless Line

Learning how to flare stainless steel lines properly is beneficial to a car enthusiast. Flaring stainless steel lines can save you a great deal of money when it comes to changing the brake lines on your automobile. This is especially true when it comes to custom brake lines. If you are restoring an old automobile, or building a custom car, chances are you are not going to find an exact fit off the shelf.

Instructions

    1

    Measure the length of the stainless line that you need using a tape measure. Cut the tubing to length using the tubing cutter. Shape the stainless line as necessary to the pattern for your particular application using the tubing bender. It is important that you do this carefully to avoid kinking the tubing.

    2

    Ream the opening of the cut you made carefully using the reaming tool. The end of the tubing must be square and flat in order for the flare to work properly. Put a small chamfer on the end of the tubing using the metal file. When creating a double-flare, this is a requirement. It is also important to ensure there are no burrs in the tubing.

    3

    Smooth the end of the tubing using the emery cloth. Place a flare nut on the tubing. Insert the end of the tubing into the flare tool while using the double-flare insert as a guide. Clamp it in place by tightening the thumbscrews on the tool. Place the flaring tool over the insert and twist the handle until it is snug. Check to that the insert is square on the clamp.

    4

    Remove the flaring tool and insert from the tubing. Note a bell-shaped flare. Place a drop of oil on the end of the tube and slide the tool over to the end. Tighten down on the tool to form the second part of the flare.

Dodge Van Brake Rotor Removal

Dodge Van Brake Rotor Removal

Performing a brake job on your Dodge van may seem like a difficult task, but it is quite simple to do. The key is knowing what needs to be done and covering all the bases. For example, you need to replace the rotors, along with the pads, or have the stock ones turned at an auto parts store. This ensures that there's a smooth surface for the new brake pads to contact. In this case, the project vehicle is a 2000 Dodge Caravan, but the process is similar for other vehicles as well.

Instructions

    1

    Use a jack to lift the front end of the Caravan into the air then lower it down onto the jack stands. Remove the front tires and place them out of the way.

    2

    Unbolt the brake caliper adapter from the steering knuckle using a ratchet. Lift the assembly off of the rotor then hold it in one hand while looping the bungee cord around the spring on the front suspension with the other. Suspend the caliper from the bungee cord but make sure there is no tension on the brake line.

    3

    Remove the rotor retaining clips from the wheel lugs on the front of the rotor using the pliers. These aren't on every van and could have been removed previously. It's OK if they get damaged in the process of removing them as it's not crucial to reinstall them.

    4

    Lift the rotor straight off of the wheel studs using both hands.

How to Remove the Rear Brakes on a Buick Lesabre

How to Remove the Rear Brakes on a Buick Lesabre

The Buick Lesabre was manufactured with rear drum brakes on most models, and these can be removed easily. The main drum and shoes are routine maintenance items, designed to be accessed and repaired through standardized means. The average backyard mechanic can remove both rear brakes from a Lesabre in about 40 minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Lift the Buick at the rear wheel by placing the floor jack underneath a frame rail and pumping the lever until the wheel is in the air. Support the jack with a jack stand in the same location as the jack head.

    2

    Take the wheel off by turning all of the lugnuts counterclockwise and pulling the wheel from the hub and lug bolts. Store the wheel away from the vehicle.

    3

    Slide the drum from the brake assembly by pulling it straight out. Some models will have keeper bolts or screws on the face of the drum that can be removed in a counterclockwise direction with a socket wrench or screwdriver. Inspect the interior of the brake assembly for leaks or excessive wear.

    4

    Remove the brake shoes by levering the long retainer springs off of the shoe hooks with a brake tool or screwdriver. Turn the primary spring bolt counterclockwise (located in the center of each shoe). Slide the shoes off, away from the backing plate. The adjustment bolt can also be removed at this time by pulling it free, since it has no shoes to hold it in place.

    5

    Remove the wheel cylinder if it is leaking, or requires replacement gaskets, by turning the mount screws behind the backing plate and pulling the wheel cylinder piston free of the housing.