Selasa, 29 September 2009

How to Remove Baked-on Brake Dust

How to Remove Baked-on Brake Dust

The brake rotor wearing away the brake lining causes brake dust. Brake pads are made of carbon fibers, metal filings and adhesives. Adhesive is acidic in nature and will cling to the metal filings while they are hot, causing the concoction to singe the wheel surface. The dust tends to be tacky and builds up in every tiny crevice on your wheels. Brake dust can damage your wheels if not removed and becomes especially difficult to remove once it bakes on. The only way to avoid such a catastrophe is to clean your wheels often, removing all brake dust.

Instructions

    1
    Use clean water for each rinse.
    Use clean water for each rinse.

    Fill a bucket with water. Wet the wheels with water from the bucket or a hose. Scrub the wheel gently but firmly with a wheel brush to remove any loose brake dust or debris.

    2

    Spray brake or wheel cleaner on the wheel, avoiding the tire. As per the instructions on the cleaner, begin scrubbing the wheel to remove residual brake dust.

    3
    Look inside the wheel to check for brake dust.
    Look inside the wheel to check for brake dust.

    Rinse the wheel completely with water to remove any cleaner. If brake dust remains, you may need to clean the wheel again. Brake dust left on the wheel can bake on and will be difficult to remove. Using a stiff wheel brush and strong force may be necessary to loosen the dust.

    4
    Twist the tip of a cotton swab to create a point.
    Twist the tip of a cotton swab to create a point.

    Use an old toothbrush or a small wheel detailing brush to get into small spaces, as a final cleaning may be needed to remove brake dust from small cracks, crevices and divots. Spray brake dust remover onto these areas and brush out. Cotton swabs can get into tiny spaces. Ceramic brake pads will lessen the amount of brake dust, although not completely. Top of the Line Detailing Supplies' solution is to keep the brake dust off the wheels. Cleaning your wheels thoroughly each time you wash your car will keep brake dust at bay and possibly prevent it from becoming baked on altogether.

How to Change the Starter in a Mini Cooper

Without the starter in your Mini Cooper, the car would just sit there. When you turn on the key, it sends an electrical impulse to the solenoid, which activates the starter. The starter then engages the flywheel to start the car. If you hear a rapid clicking sound when you turn the key, or it simply does nothing, you likely need to change the starter. Experienced home mechanics should be able to complete the job in about two hours. You can do it in your driveway or garage.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable using a wrench to loosen the terminal nut.

    2

    Disconnect the exhaust system from the manifold by removing the nuts using a wrench. Remove the eight nuts holding the exhaust manifold to the engine using a wrench.

    3

    Remove the heat shield covering the starter, using a wrench to remove the nuts. Release the oxygen sensor from the wire clip.

    4

    Disconnect the wires to the alternator, using a wrench to remove the nuts.

    5

    Tag the electrical wires on the starter, noting their proper locations with the marker and masking tape. Disconnect the wires using a wrench to remove the nuts. Remove the starter mounting bolts using a socket and ratchet.

    6

    Install the new starter on the engine and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Connect the electrical wires to the starter according to the tags, then tighten the nuts with the wrench.

    7

    Connect the electrical wires to the alternator and tighten the nuts with the wrench. Hook the oxygen sensor back into the wire clip. Replace the heat shield on the starter and tighten the nuts with the wrench.

    8

    Attach the exhaust manifold to the engine and tighten the eight nuts with the wrench. Connect the exhaust system to the manifold and tighten the nuts with the wrench.

    9

    Connect the battery cable and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench. Start the car to test the new starter.

Senin, 28 September 2009

How to Properly Break in Drum Brakes

Once you've replaced the drum brakes on your vehicle, you'll find they won't work well at high speeds until you break them in. The stopping power is weak when you first install new drum brakes and you will have to apply the brakes a few times to bring them up to the correct temperature. The best time to break in, or bed, your new drum brakes is early morning, when traffic is light.

Instructions

    1

    Drive your car to an open highway and accelerate to about 60 miles per hour. Do not exceed this speed; going faster could cause the brakes to overheat with repeated braking.

    2

    Apply your brakes firmly but not hard enough the trigger the antilock braking system, or ABS. Slow down but do not stop. Decelerate to about 15 miles per hour and then accelerate back up to 60.

    3

    Repeat Steps 1 and 2 about 10 times to break in your new drum brakes. After the last cycle, drive on the highway at a cruising speed and avoid applying your brakes as much as possible to allow the brakes to cool down; this takes about five minutes.

    4

    Repeat one more break-in cycle after the brakes cool down, following Steps 1 through 3.

How to Change the Rear Drum Brakes on a 2003 PT Cruiser

How to Change the Rear Drum Brakes on a 2003 PT Cruiser

The drum brakes on the PT Cruiser, like most vehicles, use brake shoes that work with the parking brake. If the parking brake doesn't feel tight, you may need to replace the shoes. The drum assembly uses retaining pins, springs and other parts to hold the brake shoes in place and adjust them. Use caution if you decide to replace the brake shoes yourself. You must replace the shoes on both drums.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Block the front wheels then raise the car's rear end and support it on jack stands. Release the parking brake and remove the rear wheels.

    2

    Slip the brake drum off. If it is stuck, insert a screwdriver into the hole in the backing plate to turn the adjuster wheel and retract the brakes.

    3

    Unhook the return spring from the adjuster lever and brake shoe (this spring runs up and down on the side) using locking pliers then disconnect the upper and lower return springs.

    4

    Twist and remove the hold-down spring and retainer from the front shoe then remove the shoe.

    5

    Pull out the rod and fork-shaped adjuster from the assembly.

    6

    Pry open the retainer on the parking brake lever just enough to remove it. Remove the rear shoe's hold-down spring and retainer, then separate the shoe from the parking brake lever to remove it.

Installation

    7

    Apply small amounts of high temperature grease to the spots on the backing plate that contact the brake shoes, along with the moving parts of the brake assembly and where the adjuster touches the brake shoes.

    8

    Connect the replacement rear shoe to the parking brake lever using the pin and the wave washer from the old shoe/lever connection and secure the retainer in the pin groove with the pliers. Install the rear shoe on the brake assembly.

    9

    Insert the adjuster onto the brake shoe.

    10

    Install the front shoe with its hold-down spring, making sure the adjuster is properly seated in between the two brake shoes.

    11

    Connect all the return springs using the pliers.

    12

    Slip the drum back onto the assembly then adjust the shoes with the adjuster wheel until the drum drags against the shoes when turned. Turn the adjuster wheel in the other direction until the shoes just stop dragging.

    13

    Reconnect the wheels and lower the car once you've changed both brake assemblies.

Minggu, 27 September 2009

How to Replace the Front Disc Brake Pads on a 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis

The 2003 model year brought about a small redesign for the Grand Marquis. In this redesign, Mercury retained the full-sized luxury sedan's basic styling, making only subtle changes to the headlights and grille. The 2003 Grand Marquis came standard with a 4.6-liter V-8 engine that cranked out 224 horsepower. It also came standard with front disc brakes. When replacing the front disc brake pads on your 2003 Grand Marquis, it's best to inspect the rotors to assure there is no damage or excessive wear.

Instructions

    1

    Turn off the airbag suspension, if equipped, via the switch on the right-hand side of the trunk.

    2

    Remove about half of the fluid from the Grand Marquis' brake master cylinder, using a clean turkey baster. Transfer this fluid to a small container.

    3

    Loosen, but do not remove, the Grand Marquis' front lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle, using a floor jack, and slide jack stands under the Mercury's frame rails. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull the front wheels off the vehicle.

    4

    Remove the two caliper-to-anchor plate bolts, using a ratchet and socket, and pull the caliper from the anchor plate. Hang the caliper from a nearby suspension component, using a bungee strap.

    5

    Remove the inner and outer brake pads and metal anti-rattle clips from the anchor plate. Remove the two anchor plate-to-steering knuckle bolts, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the anchor plate from the steering knuckle.

    6

    Grab the brake rotor and pull it from the vehicle. If the rotor does not pull off easily, lightly tap it with a rubber mallet to free it. Inspect the rotor for any defects, such as: deep grooves, grinding, hot spotting or mirror-like shine. Discard and replace the rotor with a new one if any defects exist.

    7

    Set the rotor -- new or original -- on the vehicle. Install the anchor plate and tighten the anchor plate-to-steering knuckle bolts to 118 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.

    8

    Install new anti-rattle clips -- included with the brake pads -- on the anchor plate. Install new brake pads on the anchor plate and coat the rear of the pads with disc brake grease.

    9

    Set the old inner brake pad on the caliper piston and position an 8-inch C-clamp so that its screw portion touches the brake pad and the fixed side touches the rear of the caliper. Tighten the C-clamp until the brake pad stops moving. Remove the C-clamp.

    10

    Set the caliper on the anchor plate and tighten the caliper-to-anchor plate bolts to 126 to 169 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.

    11

    Repeat steps 4 through 10 for the brake pads on the opposite side of the Grand Marquis.

    12

    Re-install the tires and wheels on the Grand Marquis and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the vehicle off the jack stands, using a floor jack, and remove the stands. Lower the Mercury to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscrossing pattern, to 85 to 104 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.

    13

    Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Add DOT 3 brake fluid until it reaches the "Max" line on the reservoir and close the master cylinder reservoir lid.

    14

    Turn on the suspension airbags, if applicable.

    15

    Take the old brake fluid to an automotive fluid recycling center. Many auto parts stores take fluids free of charge.

How to Fix the Brakes on a 1999 Jeep Wrangler

How to Fix the Brakes on a 1999 Jeep Wrangler

The Jeep Wrangler is a sports-utility vehicle that can directly trace its roots to the go-anywhere, do-anything Jeeps of World War II. A Jeep that is well-maintained can last for decades. One of the most important maintenance areas is the braking system. Your Jeep's brake pads wear down as the miles add up, which makes them less effective at slowing your Jeep down. If the pads wear down enough, they can fail, which can lead to an accident. Replacing your Jeep's brakes is a project you can complete with the proper tools and knowledge.

Instructions

Rear Drum Brakes

    1

    Park the Jeep on flat ground and put the emergency brake on. Put the Jeep in second gear (manual transmission) or "Park" (automatic transmission).

    2

    Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts on the rear tires.

    3

    Jack up the rear of the Jeep. Place a jack stand underneath each side of the outer frame, and slowly lower the Jeep onto the jack stands.

    4

    Remove the lug nuts from the rear tires and take the tires off of the Jeep.

    5

    Slide the brake drum off the wheel hub. If it won't slide off, remove the rubber plug from the back of the wheel hub, then slide a flathead screwdriver into the hole and rotate the sprocket inside the wheel hub with an upward motion, to retract the brake shoes.

    6

    Clean the wheel hub with compressed air. Wear safety goggles and gloves, and avoid coming into direct contact with the brake dust, as it may contain asbestos.

    7

    Disconnect the springs from the pin at the top of the brake with the brake spring removal tool, removing the outer spring first.

    8

    Lift up the auto-adjuster tab with a screwdriver and pair of pliers, and disconnect the auto-adjuster cable. The auto-adjuster tab is the small metal tab located at the bottom of the wheel.

    9

    Disconnect and remove the two springs located at the bottom of the wheel hub. These are the spring-loaded brake shoe retainers.

    10

    Remove the auto-adjuster by pulling it forward and out.

    11

    Take the brake shoes off the wheel. The primary brake shoe will be completely disconnected. Disconnect the spring that is attached to the secondary brake shoe.

    12

    Apply non-drying silicone brake lubricant to the spots on the wheel hub where the brake shoes are attached.

    13

    Install the new brake shoes, then re-assemble the brake by reversing the steps you took to disassemble it.

    14

    Repeat this process on the other rear wheel. Put the tires back on the rear wheels, and lower the Jeep to the ground.

Front Disc Brakes

    15

    Park the Jeep on flat ground and put the emergency brake on. Put the Jeep in second gear (manual transmission) or "Park" (automatic transmission).

    16

    Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts on the front tires.

    17

    Jack up the front of the Jeep. Place a jack stand underneath each side of the outer frame, and slowly lower the Jeep onto the jack stands.

    18

    Remove the lug nuts from the front tires and take the tires off of the Jeep.

    19

    Press up on the front caliper and slowly lift the caliper off the rotor. Connect the caliper to the wheel hub with a piece of wire to support it. This prevents the brake line from being damaged by bearing the full weight of the caliper.

    20

    Slide the brake pads (outer pad first) from the caliper.

    21

    Insert the new brake pads into the caliper (inner pad first.)

    22

    Lower the caliper back into its proper position. If the piston needs to be retracted, place a small piece of wood over it and slowly compress it with a C-clamp.

    23

    Repeat this process for the other front wheel.

    24

    Place the tires back onto the Jeep and slowly lower it to the ground.

    25

    Bleed the brakes.

How to Take Off 4X4 Rear Rotors

The rear brake rotors on a 4X4 vehicle are a part of the emergency braking system, and provide a small percentage of the braking power for the rest of the vehicle. When the rotors wear down, remove them so you can replace or resurface them. In this case, the project vehicle is a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado, but the process is similar for other 4X4 vehicles as well.

Instructions

    1

    Park the truck on a level surface and put the wheel chocks around the front wheels on both sides. Lift up the rear axle with the jack and put jack stands underneath. Remove the jack. Remove the rear wheels with the tire iron.

    2

    Unbolt the rear brake calipers from the rear axle with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Pull them off the rear rotors, then hang them on the frame by a J-hook.

    3

    Remove any clips around the wheel lugs on the brakes using the needle-nose pliers. Then slide the rotor off the axle with both hands.

Sabtu, 26 September 2009

How to Change the Brake Pads on a Town & Country

How to Change the Brake Pads on a Town & Country

The brake pads on a Town and Country provide safety to its driver and passengers. Brakes work by squeezing pads against a rotor to slow a car or van down. Over time, these pads wear down. Faulty brake pads affect the safety of a car's occupants. Brake pads can last between 30,000 to 70,000 miles, and they should be inspected every 15,000 miles or anytime there is trouble with the brake system.

Instructions

    1

    Find a flat surface to park your Town and Country. Take a lug wrench and loosen the lug nuts on the front end's wheels. Then remove the wheels. Use a jack to lift the front corner of the van. Place the jack stands under the frame, and then lower the van down on the stands.

    2

    Disconnect the negative battery cable from the car's battery. Then drain out two-thirds of the brake fluid.

    3

    Unscrew one side of caliper guide bolts. These should be on the outside of the brake assembly.

    4

    Slide the caliper upward from the rotor. Take a piece of wire and suspend it. You do not want it hanging by the brake line.

    5

    Remove the metal clip from the brake pad with a flathead screwdriver. After the clip is off, remove the brake pad. Pull firmly on the inner brake pad until it pops out.

    6

    Use a C-clamp to compress the caliper piston. You can protect the piston head with a piece of scrap wood.

    7

    Take the new inner brake pad and pop it into the caliper. Then slide the outer pad into its place. It should be held firmly by the metal clip.

    8

    Slide the caliper back in place and reinstall the bolts previously remove. Using your torque wrench, you will want to torque them to 196 pounds/inches or 17 pound-feet.

    9

    Repeat Steps 2-8 for the vehicle's remaining sides.

    10

    Reinstall the wheels and also replace the lug nuts by screwing them back on hand tight. Remove the car off the jack and jack stands and lower it to the ground. You will want to use torque the lug nuts to 95 pounds. Pump the brakes three to five times until it feels normal. You will also need to add brake fluid back since you drained it.

Directions to Change the Front Brake Pads on a '95 Chevrolet Suburban

Directions to Change the Front Brake Pads on a '95 Chevrolet Suburban

The Chevrolet Suburban is the largest sport utility vehicle (SUV) manufactured by the Chevrolet division of General Motors. The Suburban is built upon the same frame as the Chevrolet Silverado and uses the same powertrain as the pickup. This means the Suburban uses large disc brakes to stop the vehicle on the front wheels. Changing these brakes involves swapping the old brake pads for new brake pads. The whole process can be completed in a single afternoon.

Instructions

Getting to the brakes

    1

    Park the Suburban on a level and solid surface, like a concrete garage floor and engage the parking brake.

    2

    Loosen the lug nuts on both front tires using the tire iron.

    3

    Lift the front of the Suburban by the front frame cross-member using the floor jack.

    4

    Place a jack stand under the frame just behind the wheel wells and then lower the front of the Suburban onto the jack stands.

    5

    Use the tire iron to fully remove the lug nuts and the front tires.

Changing the brake pads

    6

    Loosen the outer set of bolts on the back of the disc brake assembly using the ratchet and 15mm sockets.

    7

    Remove the inner set of bolts using the ratchet and socket.

    8

    Slide the screw driver between the brake assembly and the brake rotor and pry the brake assembly upwards, off the brake rotor.

    9

    Fully remove the outer set of bolts to separate the brake caliper from the brake pads and brake assembly.

    10

    Use the handle of the ratchet or the screw driver to knock the brake pads out of the brake assembly.

    11

    Clean the rust and debris off the brake assembly using the wire brush.

    12

    Smear a little bit of graphite lubricant on the brake pad tracks on the assembly.

    13

    Clip the new brake hardware clips into the brake pad tracks.

    14

    Slide the new brake pads into the brake pad tracks on top of the brake hardware clips and with the pads facing inward.

    15

    Slide the brake assembly over the brake rotor and screw in the bolts to hold it in place.

    16

    Place the brake caliper back over the brake assembly and insert the caliper pins (outer bolts) then tight both the inner and outer bolts with the ratchet as tight as possible.

Putting everything back together

    17

    Change the brake pads on the other side of the Suburban.

    18

    Place the tires back on each axle and screw on the lug nuts evenly.

    19

    Lift the front of the Suburban using the floor jack and remove the jack stands.

    20

    Lower the Suburban to the ground.

    21

    Tighten all of the lug nuts using the tire iron.

How to Install Rear Drum Brakes

Installing new rear brake shoes is a straightforward process of safely removing the old shoes, cleaning the parts that will be reused and installing the new shoes. But there are a few things that can be done to bring professional results. The keys to top-notch brake work is to keep everything clean during reassembly and proper adjustment when the installation is complete.

Instructions

Disassemble and Clean

    1

    Remove the drum by sharply striking the drum face with a hammer to loosen it from the hub and slide it off the hub.

    2

    Clean the drum and brake assembly with soapy water and a scrub brush. This removes brake dust and suspends it in the soapy water so you don't breathe it. Caution--some brake shoes may contain asbestos.

    3

    Remove the return springs with the return-spring tool by rolling the return springs off the anchor pin. Removing the return springs first removes all of the tension from the shoes, and makes removal of the shoes much easier.

    4

    Remove the hold-down springs by rotating the spring retainers 90 degrees with the hold-down spring tool. The primary or front shoe will drop, and can be removed with the lower spring.

    5

    Disconnect the secondary shoe from the parking brake lever, and remove the shoe.

    6

    Clean the backing plate and all brake hardware with soapy water. Keeping dirt and grease off of the new shoes will prevent grabbing, and groaning noises.

    7

    Lube the backing-plate contact points with silicon brake lube. This allows the new shoes to slide on the backing plate. This prevents backing-plate wear, as well as squeaking and popping noises.

Reassembly

    8

    Attach the secondary shoe to the parking brake lever. Some of these use an e-clip, but most require a horseshoe-shaped clip that is crimped on using pliers.

    9

    Attach the primary and secondary shoes to the backing plate. Make sure the adjuster cable/ link, and guide are in place.

    10

    Make sure the adjuster cable/link and guide are in place. Install the parking-brake strut, and return springs

    11

    Install the adjuster lever, and the lower spring connecting the lower portions of the two shoes.

    12

    Install the self-adjuster by screwing the star wheel into the adjuster, and then spreading the shoes apart and slipping it into place between them.

    The easiest way to accomplish this is by sliding the narrow end behind the shoes then slipping the star wheel end into place. Then with both hands, spread the shoes and position the narrow end onto the shoe.

Adjustment

    13

    Preadjustment can be accomplished by rotating the star wheel to spread the shoes, until the drum just fits on the assembly.

    14

    With the drum installed, use the adjuster tool to rotate the star wheel until the shoes drag slightly on the drum when turned.

    15

    Test drive and readjust as needed. The drum should have enough drag so it will spin almost one turn before stopping when spun by hand.

Jumat, 25 September 2009

How to Adjust Type M Air Brakes

Type M air brakes are also known as manual slack adjusting air brakes. The air brakes are adjusted by a manual slack adjuster that keeps the brakes adjusted the proper distance from the brake drums. When the air brakes are applied, the manual slack adjuster turns the S-cams, which in turn applies the brake shoes to the brake drums. Once the drum brakes begin to wear down, you will need to adjust the manual slack adjuster to keep the brake shoes the proper distance from the brake drums.

Instructions

    1

    Pull your vehicle into a flat, safe working area. Apply the air brakes and leave the engine running.

    2

    Place the wheel chocks behind and in front of each rear wheel.

    3

    Release the air brakes and turn the engine off.

    4

    Slide under the rear of the vehicle and locate the slack adjusters that are mounted to the rear axle. There is one manual slack adjuster on the driver side of the rear axle and one manual slack adjuster on the passenger side of the rear axle.

    5

    Locate the adjustment bolt on the back side of the manual slack adjuster. The adjustment bolt will be either a 9/16-inch bolt head or a 7/16-inch bolt head. Position a ratchet and a socket on the adjustment bolt. Push the head of the ratchet onto the adjustment bolt to release the spring-loaded locking mechanism that surrounds the adjustment bolt. This will allow you to turn the adjustment bolt.

    6

    Turn the adjustment bolt clockwise while pushing inward on the head of the ratchet until the adjustment bolt stops turning. Once the adjustment bolt stops turning, it means that the brake shoes are against the brake drums.

    7

    Shine the flashlight through the back side of the wheel hub to ensure that the brake shoes are fully against the brake drums.

    8

    Turn the adjustment bolt counterclockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn to set the brake shoes the proper distance from the brake drums. Gently wiggle the head of the ratchet back and forth until the adjustment bolt and the locking mechanism retracts out of the slack adjuster and locks in place. Remove the ratchet and socket from the slack adjuster.

    9

    Move to the other slack adjuster and repeat the process.

Kamis, 24 September 2009

How to Remove the Brake Caliper on a 1996 Cadillac

How to Remove the Brake Caliper on a 1996 Cadillac

The braking system on a Cadillac is hydraulic in nature, with the brake calipers acting as a hydraulic piston, squeezing the pads onto the rotors. Over time, all hydraulic seals can wear out, including the ones in a brake system. The easiest way to fix the problem is to remove the calipers and have them rebuilt, or just purchase new ones. In this case, the project vehicle is a 1996 Cadillac Deville, but the process is similar for other vehicles as well.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the front end of the car in the air using the jack and set it back down onto jack stands. Make sure the stands are locked and safe prior to removing the wheels. Take off the wheels using the tire iron, then install two lugs on the wheel studs to keep the brake disc in place.

    2

    Install the brake clamps onto the rubber brake hose to keep excess brake fluid from leaking out of the vehicle. Then unbolt the brake line from the brake caliper using an open-end wrench.

    3

    Unbolt the brake caliper from the front suspension using the ratchet, then take the caliper off of the rotor and the caliper mounting bracket.

How to Replace Rear Brake Shoes on a Ford Probe

Replacing the rear shoes in your Ford Probe requires skillful hand and finger strength and dexterity as well as a degree of patience. It's not as hard as some rear brake shoes replacements, but it's not as easy as replacing the front disc brakes on the Probe, either. Save yourself some money and replace the shoes yourself. Take both drums off, but leave one side together to refer to if you've never done this before. There are a lot of small springs and hardware and having a starting point to refer to will be helpful.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Ford Probe on a flat paved surface. Do not apply the parking brake, but place the Probe in gear and remove the keys from the ignition. Place a wheel chock in front of one of the front tires. Break the lug nuts loose on the rear tires using the breaker bar and a socket

    2

    Lift the left rear quarter of the Probe with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the left rear frame rail. Do the same for the right side to elevate the rear axle. Remove the lug nuts and wheels on both sides.

    3

    Remove the two drum retaining screws on the facing of the driver's side rear drum using the impact screwdriver set in reverse position and a Phillips head bit. Strike the top of the screwdriver with the hammer to break the screws free and then un-thread them from the drum. Remove the drum. If the drum is stuck to the hub, strike the face of it with the hammer to break it free.Do the same for the passenger side rear drum. Then return to the driver's side.

    4

    Locate the brake shoe adjuster just below the wheel cylinder and under the top shoe return spring. On the left hand side of the adjuster is a cam that positions the adjuster. Release the tension on the adjuster by pressing in on the cam with the screwdriver. The shoes will come in together a little. Use the needle nosed pliers or the set of dikes to remove both the upper and lower brake shoe return springs.

    5

    Remove the hold-down spring in the inboard (left) shoe by pressing on the clip with the finger of one hand and holding the head of the hold down pin on the backside of the backing plate with a finger on your other hand. Turn the clip so the notch in the clip mates with the tip of the pin. This is not easy to accomplish and you may have better luck manipulating the clip and pin with the needle nosed pliers than your finger. Remove the inboard shoe. Remove the brake shoe adjuster by sliding it out from the left.

    6

    Repeat this step on the outboard (right shoe). You do not have to remove the parking brake cable from the actuating lever for the outboard shoe, but you will need to remove the retaining clip that is holding the actuating lever to the shoe so you can remove the shoe. Spreading the clip with the screwdriver will work.

    7

    Spray the inside of the backing plate with brake clean and allow the backing plate to dry. Locate the six shoe contact points (three for each shoe) on the backing plate. They're near the outside edge of the backing plate and are oval shaped. These points are where the backing plate of the shoes sit against the backing plate. Clean these spots thoroughly with emery cloth or a light grade sand paper and apply a coat of silicone based lubricant to those points.

    8

    Install the new brake shoes and hardware starting with the outboard shoe. Reattach the shoe to the actuating lever by squeezing the clip with the needle nose pliers. Replace the hold down spring and pin to hold the outboard shoe in place and then install the lower return spring.

    9

    Clean and replace the brake shoe adjuster in the same position it was removed. It will sit there on the hub axle until the inboard shoe holds it into place. Attach the lower return spring to the inboard shoe and swing the shoe into place, manipulating the backing plate to secure the adjuster. Replace the hold down spring and hold down pin on the inboard shoe. Replace the upper retaining spring.

    10

    Place the drum on to see how loose it fits. You'll need to manipulate the cam of the adjuster with the screwdriver to get it so the drum fits snugly, however you may want to replace the passenger side shoes first and leave the driver's side drum off as visual aide and reference again if necessary.

    11

    When both sides are replaced, adjust the cam to get the drums to fit snug, replace the retaining screws and replace the wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts snug to the hubs and lower the Probe. Re-tighten the lug nuts with the torque wrench set between 80 to 100 foot pounds and a socket. Remove the wheel chock.

Senin, 21 September 2009

How to Change the Rear Brakes on a Toyota Corolla

How to Change the Rear Brakes on a Toyota Corolla

The rear brakes on a Toyota Corolla are drum brakes with shoes that are connected to the parking brake. As is the case with most cars, changing the rear brakes means working with multiple springs and levers along with the shoes. You need to replace the springs with the brakes, as they can stretch and wear out over time. This process can vary depending on the exact year of the Corolla.

Instructions

Accessing the Brakes

    1

    Block the car's front wheels with blocks or chocks, and release the parking brake.

    2

    Raise the rear end of the Corolla using the floor jack, and support it on jack stands. Remove both rear wheels with the tire iron.

    3

    Pull the brake drum off the assembly and axle.

    4

    Wash off the entire brake assembly with brake cleaner spray; never use air. Catch the dripping cleaner and residue with a drip pan.

Removal

    5

    Unhook the upper return spring from the adjuster lever, and then disconnect the lever from the shoe that it is connected to via stud. You need needle-nose pliers for these tasks.

    6

    Remove the lower return spring from both shoes using the pliers.

    7

    Press the hold-down spring on the shoe you didn't disconnect the adjuster lever from, turn it 90 degrees, and release it using the pliers. Remove this shoe, then disconnect the upper spring's other end and remove it.

    8

    Remove the other shoe along with the adjuster mechanism by disconnecting its hold-down spring, then disconnect the parking brake lever from the shoe by removing its clip with the pliers.

Installation

    9

    Connect the parking brake lever to its accompanying replacement brake shoe, and crimp a new C-clip in place on it with the pliers.

    10

    Dab high-temperature grease on the spots on the brake assembly's backing plate that touch the brake shoes.

    11

    Position the rear replacement shoe into position on the backing plate, guide the shoe's hold-down pin in place, and attach the pin's hold-down cup and spring with the pliers.

    12

    Lubricate the adjuster screw's moving parts lightly with high-temperature grease, and connect the adjuster assembly on the rear shoe, fitting the adjuster's end into the slot on the shoe. Hook a new upper return spring onto the shoe.

    13

    Connect the upper spring to the new front shoe with the pliers, and line up the shoe with the adjuster. Seat the shoe against the backing plate, and screw its hold-down spring in place with the pliers.

    14

    Reconnect the adjuster lever, and connect the upper spring to the lever, then connect a new lower spring to both shoes.

    15

    Reconnect the brake drum to the brake assembly and axle.

    16

    Connect the wheels, and lower the car after changing both sets of brakes.

How to Remove the Rear Brake Drum on a Hyundai Elantra

How to Remove the Rear Brake Drum on a Hyundai Elantra

The Hyundai Elantra rear brakes are a drum and shoe type system. The shoes are forced out against the drums by an hydraulic wheel cylinder when the brake pedal is depressed. The shoes typically wear slower than the front disc brake pads, but removing the rear drums regularly to inspect the condition of the drum and shoes is good preventative maintenance. Clean the drums, shoes and hardware every time you remove the drums to extend the life of your rear brakes.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels of your Hyundai Elantra with a lug wrench. Do not take them off the wheel studs yet; just break them loose.

    2

    Position a jack under the rear suspension of the car and raise it until the tires are off the ground. Place a set of jack stands under the rear suspension to support the car, while you work, then remove the jack.

    3

    Remove the lug nuts from the wheel studs and set them in a safe place. Slide the wheel and tire off the wheel studs, revealing the brake drum underneath, then set the wheel and tire aside for now.

    4

    Check the area of the brake drum where the wheel studs come through it. On some cars, there is a metal retaining clip around the wheel stud that holds the drum in place during the manufacturing process. If there is still one on your car, pry it off the wheel stud with a flat head screwdriver. Don't worry if it breaks; you can discard it as it is no longer needed.

    5

    Grasp the brake drum on the side with your hands and pull it straight back towards you. It should slide off, but you may have to work it back and forth a little. Sometimes the drums stick if they have been on the car for a long time.

Minggu, 20 September 2009

DIY 98 Integra Brake Pads

The 1998 Acura Integra is fitted with front-wheel anti-lock disc brakes. The brakes are composed of brake pads that work in conjunction with the front-wheel brake rotors to slow and eventually stop the Integra. If the brake pads are worn too thin they will be impotent in applying the pressure needed for consistent braking. Listen for the squeal or grinding of worn brake pads. If the pads are worn thing, you can choose to have them replaced professionally or you can perform the replacement yourself.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Acura on a flat surface and apply the parking brake. Turn the engine off and pull the hood release lever located on the driver's side of the vehicle under the dashboard. Move to the front of the Acura and lift the hood.

    2

    Remove the master cylinder cap located on the left side of the Integra's engine. Remove half of the brake fluid from the reservoir with a syringe or turkey baster. Store the removed brake fluid in a drip pan and dispose of the old fluid properly -- do not reuse it. Consult the Environmental Protection Agency's website at epa.gov for regulations regarding hazardous material disposal for your state. Place the master cylinder cap loosely over the master cylinder's opening.

    3

    Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with the tire iron. Place the jack under the frame in the front of the Acura and lift the front tires off the ground. Place jack stands under the front axles and lower the vehicle onto the stands. Remove the lug nuts and take the front wheels off.

    4

    Remove the two caliper slide pins with a 10 mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly and rest it on top of the steering arm. Slide the two brake pads from each caliper bracket. Inspect the caliper bracket and brake rotor for damage. Clean the caliper bracket with brake parts cleaner and a wire brush.

    5

    Place the C-clamp or channel-lock pliers over at the caliper piston and the back side of the Integra's caliper. The piston extends from the inside of the caliper and is used to force the brake pads into the rotor during braking. Squeeze the piston to force it into the side of the caliber to make room for the thicker brake pads.

    6

    Remove the C-clamp or pliers once the piston is fully depressed within the side of the caliper. Apply a

    thin layer of brake grease to the inside of the caliper. Slide the new brake pads onto the caliper bracket. Replace the caliper over the new brake pads and screw on the caliper's slide pins.

    7

    Repeat steps 4 through 6 to replace the brakes on the opposite wheel.

    8

    Replace the wheels onto the wheel bolts and screw on the lug nuts by hand. Lift the front of the Acura with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the front tires to the ground with the jack and tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron. Return to the driver's seat.

    9

    Start the engine and depress the brake pedal three times slowly to force the caliper pistons into the proper position. Return to the Acura's engine compartment.

    10

    Remove the master cylinder cap and place the funnel inside the container. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Remove the funnel and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the Acura's hood.

How to Change the Brake Pads on an 1984 Celebrity

How to Change the Brake Pads on an 1984 Celebrity

The Chevrolet Celebrity was available from 1982 to 1990. The Celebrity was available in a two-, four- and four-door station wagon. The Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera and Buick Century were the sister cars of the Celebrity and lasted until 1994. The Chevrolet Celebrity was available with a base 2.8-liter V-6 engine. Optional engines for the Celebrity included a 4.3-liter diesel V-6, as well as others. The brakes on the base model 1984 Celebrity were front ventilated discs and rear drum. Changing the brake pads requires some skill and should be performed by someone with prior brake mechanical experience.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the front of the car with a jack. Place jack stands just inside both lower control arms, underneath the sub-frame. Lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts from both front wheels, then remove the wheels from the car.

    2

    Install a lug against the face of the rotor by hand, on the side you working. This will hold the rotor in place and make your job easier. Pull the metal tabs or ears on the outboard pad away from the caliper, using a hammer and a screwdriver.

    3

    Remove the caliper mounting bolts using a ratchet and socket. Remove the front caliper from the brake assembly, using a small pry bar to assist if necessary. Hang the front caliper from the front coil spring, using a metal clothes hanger or thin metal rod. Do not let the caliper hang freely by the rubber brake hose it is attached to.

    4

    Remove the outboard brake pad from the caliper. Install a C-clamp against the inboard brake pad, and the rear of the caliper. Tighten the C-clamp slowly, in order to compress the caliper piston completely. Remove the inboard pad by twisting it out of the caliper, to release the spring clip on the back of the brake pad. Remove the pad and the spring clip from the brake caliper.

    5

    Inspect the front brake rotor for excessive grooves or pitting. Measure the total thickness of the rotor with a tape measure. The rotor should be no less than 13/16-inch thick. If the rotor is less than the given thickness, the rotor should be discarded and replaced.

    6

    Install a new spring clip on the inboard brake pad, then install the new pad and clip into the caliper. Install the outboard brake pad into the caliper. Install the brake caliper onto the brake assembly. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 28 foot-pounds, with a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and socket. Depress the brake pedal until the brake pads are held in place by the caliper. Bend the ears on the outboard caliper so they are flush with the caliper's outboard face. Use a hammer to bend the ears against the caliper.

    7

    Repeat Steps 2 through 6 on the second side of the car, in order to replace the pads on the second side of the vehicle. Remove the wheel lug nut from the face of each rotor, after you have verified your torque on both calipers.

    8

    Install the front wheels onto the Celebrity. Tighten the lug nuts snug with a tire iron. Raise the car off of the jack stands, and remove the jack stands from beneath the car. Lower the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds of torque with a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and socket.

How to Change the Rear Brake Pads on a Honda Accord

Brake pads are an important part of your Honda Accord's braking system. They are the replaceable friction pads that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are applied. You should replace the brake pads before they wear beyond a 1/4 inch, or risk damaging your Accord's brake discs.

Instructions

Remove the old Brake Pads

    1

    Park your car on a level surface. If you have a stick shift car, make sure the car is in gear. Place blocks in front of the front tires so the car does not move while you are working on it.

    2

    Open the hood of your car. Locate the master cylinder and brake fluid container. If necessary, remove brake fluid until the level in the container is less than half full. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Put the brake fluid in the plastic container and dispose of it the way you dispose of motor oil.

    3

    Raise the rear end of your car with your car jack. Remove the rear tire or wheel assembly.

    4

    Use the socket wrench to remove the caliper bolts from the back of the caliper. Slide the caliper off of the disc brake and suspend it near the disc brake with a small bungee cord or coat hanger. Suspend the caliper housing so that you do not damage the brake hose.

    5

    Remove the brake pads, pad shims and retainers from the caliper. The shims are on the outer edges of the caliper and the retainers are at the top and bottom of the caliper.

Install the new Brake Pads

    6

    Clean the caliper with brake part cleaner and a damp cloth.

    7

    Grease the shims and the backs of the new brake pads with a thin coat of the recommended assembly paste. Insert the pads and shims into the caliper.

    8

    Turn the caliper piston clockwise. There is a cutout in the piston that you need to align with the tab on the inner pad. Adjust the piston so the caliper so the piston is flush with the caliper. Use rubber grease to lubricate the caliper boot (the outer ring of the caliper piston) so that you don't twist the piston boot.

    9

    Use the socket wrench to attach the caliper to the disc rotor.

    10

    Replace the wheel assembly (tire). Lower the car to the ground. Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the brake pads.

    11

    Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace any you removed before you removed the old brake pads.

    12

    Season the brake pads by making only gentle stops when you are driving for the first week after you install the new brake pads. Try not to do any hard stopping when you are seasoning the brakes.

How to Replace Brake Pads on a 2001 Galant

The brake pads on the 2001 Mitsubishi Galant are responsible for stopping the vehicle. The brake pads are enclosed inside of the brake caliper. When the brake pedal is applied, the cylinder inside of the brake caliper pushes the brake pads to the sides of the brake rotor. The friction form the brake pads being compressed against the turning brake rotor is what stops the Galant. Replace or turn the brake rotors each time that the brake pads are replaced.

Instructions

    1

    Park the 2001 Mitsubishi Galant on a level area and pull the emergency brake out.

    2

    Loosen each lug nut from the front wheels with a tire tool or the lug wrench that comes with the 2001 Mitsubishi Galant.

    3

    Slide the jack under the Galant so that the jack is positioned under the cross frame that is located under the engine. Jack the front of the Galant up and place the safety stands under the frame behind each front wheel. Slowly lower the jack so that the Galant is sitting evenly on top of the safety stands.

    4

    Unscrew the lug nuts from both front wheels. Pull the wheels off and place them flat on the ground.

    5

    Move back to the driver-side front wheel and locate the small opening on the side of the brake caliper. Insert the flat-head screwdriver into the opening between the back side of the brake rotor and the outer brake pad. Pry the outer brake pad against the caliper cylinder until the cylinder has fully retracted inside of the brake caliper.

    6

    Remove the lower slide pin bolt from the back of the brake caliper with the 3/8-inch drive ratchet and a socket. Then, loosen the top slide pin bolt from the back of the brake caliper with the ratchet and socket. Just loosen the top bolt.

    7

    Pull the bottom of the brake caliper upward. Then, wrap the bungee strap around the brake caliper and hook the other end of the bungee strap to the front strut or the frame rail. This will keep the brake caliper in the up position while replacing the brake pads.

    8

    Remove the brake pads along with any brake pad accessories. Position the new brake pads into the brake caliper along with any brake pad accessories.

    9

    Remove the bungee strap from the caliper and position the brake caliper back onto the side of the brake rotor. Screw the bottom slide pin bolt back into the rear of the caliper. Tighten the bottom and top slide pin bolts back down tight with the ratchet and socket.

    10

    Slide the wheel back onto the wheel studs. Screw the lug nuts onto the lugs and tighten down with the tire tool. Replace the brake pads on the other wheel hubs by following the preceding instructions.

    11

    Crank the 2001 Mitsubishi Galant and let the engine run for approximately 30 seconds. Pump the brake pedal a couple of times to properly seat the brake pads against the brake rotors. Turn the engine off.

    12

    Jack the 2001 Mitsubishi Galant back up and remove the safety stands. Lower the Galant to the ground and remove the jack.

Jumat, 18 September 2009

How to Replace the Vacuum Brake Booster in a 1996 Tahoe

How to Replace the Vacuum Brake Booster in a 1996 Tahoe

Prior to the invention of the vacuum brake booster, brakes were a lot more difficult to operate. Foot power was all that pushed brake fluid into the system, making it tough to drive for long periods of time. The vacuum brake booster uses vacuum from the engine to make pushing the brake pedal easier. When the vacuum brake booster goes out, you're back to manual brakes until it's replaced.

Instructions

    1

    Pop the hood. Unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster using an open-end wrench, then pull the master cylinder off of the brake booster, being careful not to bend the brake lines. Unplug the vacuum line to the brake booster.

    2

    Crawl under the dash and follow the brake pedal up to where the brake linkage connects to the brake pedal. Use the flathead screwdriver to remove the spring clip that holds the linkage to the pedal, then pull the linkage off the pedal assembly.

    3

    Unbolt the four bolts that secure the booster to the firewall from under the dashboard using the 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and sockets. If it becomes difficult to reach one of the bolts, use the universal joint on the end of the extension to gain extra articulation. Move to under the hood and pull out the old vacuum booster.

    4

    Put the replacement brake booster onto the firewall. Crawl underneath the dash and bolt the booster onto the firewall using the 3/8-inch ratchet, extension and sockets, and reattach the linkage to the pedal by pushing the spring clip back onto the pedal.

    5

    Bolt the master cylinder onto the brake booster using an open-end wrench. Plug the vacuum line onto the brake booster.

How Do I Replace a 2006 Toyota 4Runner's Brake Pads?

The 2006 Toyota 4Runner comes equipped with all-wheel, anti-lock disc brakes as a standard safety feature. Toyota recommends replacing the brake pads every 40,000 miles to ensure that the pad material is sufficient to slow and stop the vehicle as designed. Worn brake pads cannot handle the heat and stress generated during braking. Replace the pads when the wear indicators begin to scrape against the brake rotor to eliminate the risk of brake failure.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel for the brake pads you intend to replace with a tire iron or 17 mm socket and breaker bar. Place a jack under the frame near the wheel well and lift the 4Runner's tires off the ground. Place jack stands under the axles and lower the vehicle onto the stands.

    2

    Remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off. Remove the caliper slide bolts/pins with a 13 mm socket wrench. The bolts are located on the back side of the caliper, near the outer edge. Lift the caliper from the rotor and rest it on top of the steering arm above the wheel hub.

    3

    Pull the brake pads from the slots of the caliper bracket. The two pads sit inside the caliper bracket slots on either side of the brake rotor. Inspect the rotor for warping or heavy scoring. Badly scored rotors will erode new brake pads prematurely. Warped rotors should be replaced immediately.

    4

    Apply copper-based brake grease (anti-squeal compound) on the back sides of the new brake pads. Insert the new pads into the slots of the caliper bracket.

    5

    Place a C-clamp over the caliper piston and the back side of the caliper. The piston is responsible for squeezing the brake pads against the rotor during braking. The piston will be further extended due to the thinner brake pads that require replacement. Thicker, new brake pads need room so screw the C-clamp handle to force open the piston. Remove the clamp once the piston is fully depressed within the side of the caliper.

    6

    Position the caliper back over the brake pads and rotor. Screw in the caliper bolts with the 13 mm wrench. Reinstall the wheel onto the wheel hub and screw on the lug nuts by hand. Lift the 4Runner with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron or socket and breaker bar.

    7

    Repeat Steps 2 through 6 for each additional set of brake pads you need to replace.

    8

    Start the Toyota's engine. Pump the brake pedal repeatedly until the pedal response returns to normal.

    9

    Remove the master cylinder cap which is to the right of the 4Runner's engine. Check the level of brake fluid in the reservoir. Fill the container, as necessary, with a funnel and DOT-3 brake fluid. Remove the funnel and replace the cap once the master cylinder is full. Close the 4Runner's hood.

How to Replace GM Rear Brake Pads

How to Replace GM Rear Brake Pads

General Motors rear disk brakes use a unique rotor/drum configuration to stop the vehicle and provide braking assistance when parked on an incline. The interior of the rotor is a small drum, with miniature brake shoes and a brake cable. Friction pad replacement is similar to normal disk brakes, and can take the average backyard mechanic about thirty minutes per brake.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the vehicle by putting the floor jack head underneath a frame rail and pumping the lever until the desired wheel is in the air. Support the jack with a stand on the same frame rail only. General Motors vehicles differ in how they are designed, but the suspension or body of the car or truck will be damaged by the weight.

    2

    Remove the wheel by turning the lug nuts counterclockwise from the bolts. Set the wheel aside, and contain the loose lug nuts. Disconnect the ABS sensor from the caliper, if applicable.

    3

    Remove the caliper by turning the rear mount bolts counterclockwise, which will disengage the caliper from the assembly. Slide the caliper off of the rotor and take the pads from the caliper pistons. Some models will have clips holding the pads in place that can be removed gently with a screwdriver. Inspect the pistons for leaks around the edge seals, and check the rotor for glazing or scoring. The caliper pistons can be held in place with vice grips, a clamp, a wood chock or simply compressed later during the fluid purge process.

    4

    Replace the pads with new units by removing the piston binding, then positioning them into the caliper and attaching their clips, if so equipped. Quickly slide the caliper and pads over the rotor before the pistons extend. Turn the mount bolts clockwise. Reconnect the ABS sensor.

    5

    Replace the wheel by turning the lug nuts clockwise, and lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack. Repeat the entire process on the opposite side.

Kamis, 17 September 2009

How to Replace 2002 Audi A4 Brake Rotors

Every time you change the brake pads on your Audi A4, you should either get the rotors turned down or replace the rotors with new ones. The rotors wear down like any other part, and just putting new pads on worn rotors decreases the amount of contact between the two components, making braking less effective. In this case, the project vehicle is a 2002 Audi A4 with replacement of the front brakes.

Instructions

    1

    Raise up the front of the vehicle using the jack and set it on the jack stands. Make sure that the vehicle is solidly on the stands before crawling underneath it. Take off the front wheels using the tire iron and set them out of the workspace.

    2

    Unbolt the front caliper bracket from the steering knuckle using the ratchet, then set the caliper and bracket onto a spare jack stand so the weight of the caliper is not supported by the brake line.

    3

    Spray the center of the rotor by the center dust cap with penetrating oil as well as the Phillips head screws that secure the rotor to the hub. Place the impact screwdriver onto the screw that retains the rotor to the hub and strike the back of the screwdriver with a hammer to loosen the screw. Remove the screw entirely.

    4

    Slide the rotor off of the steering knuckle by hand. If the rotor is still stuck on the knuckle, hit the rotor with the hammer to break up the rust that's holding it in place.

    5

    Clean the center of the hub with brake cleaner then apply anti-seize compound to the perimeter of the hub as well. Slide the replacement rotor onto the hub and loosely thread two wheel bolts onto the rotor to keep it in place. These rotors are side-specific so double-check that the part number on the rotor is correct for each side. The driver's side rotor has an odd-numbered part number; the passenger side is even numbered. Install the rotor retaining screw using the impact screwdriver.

    6

    Reinstall the brake caliper bracket using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket, then reinstall the front wheels using a tire iron. Raise the vehicle off of the jack stands using the jack and place it back on the ground.

How to Change the Front Rotors on a 1999 Honda Accord

How to Change the Front Rotors on a 1999 Honda Accord

The 1999 Honda Accord was manufactured with front disk brakes, which include a rotor, caliper, and pads that use friction to stop the car. The rotor, a spinning friction surface, can wear down or become damaged, requiring replacement. The average backyard mechanic can replace a rotor on an Accord in about thirty minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen but do not remove the lug nuts on one of the front wheels of your Accord, then raise the front wheel with the floor jack, making sure the floor jack head is placed on a frame rail. Pump the lever until the wheel is in the air, then place a jack stand near the jack head for extra support. Don't place the stand or jack head on the suspension or body of the car, as this can cause serious damage.

    2

    Remove the lug nuts , then pull the wheel and tire off the hub. Set the wheel aside, away from the car.

    3

    Remove the caliper from the brake assembly by turning the rear mount bolts counterclockwise. Slide the caliper and pads from the rotor and secure them to the control arm with twist ties--don't allow the caliper to dangle by the brake lines. The pads are held in place by small clips. Remove the clips by using a screwdriver to pry them out. The pads will then come off the caliper pistons.

    4

    Remove the rotor by turning the center spindle nut counterclockwise and pulling the rotor from the hub assembly. Replace or resurface the rotor, then slide the new or refurbished rotor onto the hub and return the spindle nut to the original tightness. Replace the caliper and wheel in the reverse process as removal, and lower the Accord.

    5

    Repeat the entire process on the opposite brake assembly.

How to Replace a Rear Brake Rotor in a Miata

How to Replace a Rear Brake Rotor in a Miata

Brake rotors or brake discs are essential to the proper functioning of the braking system in your car, and thus to your safety. The rotors are cylinder in shape, and their purpose is to provide breaking to your Miata; this occurs as the brake pads connect with the rotors, which causes friction and consequently stops the wheels from turning. With the right equipment, it is possible to replace your Miata rotors at home, which can be cost effective, as you eliminate the labor cost at the mechanic's shop. This task should only take 30 minutes or so to accomplish.

Instructions

    1

    Switch the Miata into the first gear and activate the parking brake. Find the Miata jack--this should be located in the trunk of your car, near the spare tire. Locate the radiator, near the front of the car. You should then see the designated front jack point, which will be very close to, or an embellishment of, the car frame. Jack up the car, using a pumping motion.

    2

    Locate the brake caliper. This is a metal piece that is attached to the rotor, and it should look like a clamp. There will be multiple bolts on the top and bottom of the caliper. Using the wrench, unbolt the caliper bolts with the circular or socket end.

    3

    Locate the spring above the caliper. Using a zip tie, attach the caliper to the spring, so that it doesn't get in the way.

    4

    Using the rubber mallet, hit the back of the brake rotor. This piece should slide right off with little effort. Slide the new rotor into place on the hub assembly.

    5

    Cut the zip tie with scissors, and place the caliper back over the rotor. Tighten the brake caliper bolts with the wrench.

    6

    Gently lower the car, using the jack. Put the car back into "Park," and release the emergency brake.

How to Change the Brake Pads on a Mazda 3

How to Change the Brake Pads on a Mazda 3

The braking system on the Mazda 3 consists of the brake rotors, brake pads and the brake calipers. All of these braking components work in conjunction to enable the Mazda to come to a safe and secure stop. The brake pedal pushes the brake fluid through the brake fluid lines towards the brake calipers. The cylinder inside of the brake calipers will then compress against the outer brake pads. The brake pads then compress to the brake rotors. When the caliper cylinder has fully compressed the brake pads to the rotors, the Mazda 3 will come to a complete stop.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Mazda 3 on a level surface. Loosen all of the lug nuts from both of the front wheels.

    2

    Jack the front end of the Mazda 3 up in the air. Once the Mazda is high enough, position the jack stands under the front jack points on both sides of the car. Slowly lower the jack so that the Mazda 3 comes to a secure stop on the stands. Leave the jack fully upright under the car.

    3

    Finish unscrewing the lug nuts from the front driver-side wheel. Pull the wheel off and place it down flat near the front of the Mazda 3.

    4

    Remove the outer spring clip that is holding the outer brake pad to the brake caliper. Do this by prying the spring clip off with a flat-head screwdriver.

    5

    Locate the two upper and lower rubber bushings on the back side of the brake caliper. These rubber bushings are covering the Allen-head bolts. Pull the rubber bushings out with your fingers and set then to the side.

    6

    Unscrew the two Allen-head bolts with the 7 mm Allen wrench. Turn the caliper bolts counterclockwise to loosen and remove the bolts.

    7

    Pull the brake caliper off the brake rotor and hang it to the front strut with the bungee cord.

    8

    Take the inner brake pad out of the caliper. Put the outer brake pad inside of the brake caliper facing the caliper cylinder. Position the C-clamp inside of the brake caliper towards the outer brake pad. Turn the C-clamp clockwise to compress the outer brake pad towards the cylinder. Once the cylinder has fully retracted inside of the caliper, unscrew the C-clamp and remove it from the caliper.

    9

    Pull the outer brake pad out along with any other brake pad accessories such as clips and shims. Position the outer brake pad into the brake caliper mounting bracket that is still on the brake rotor.

    10

    Position the inner brake pad into the brake caliper. Then slide the brake caliper over the outer brake pad and the brake rotor. Reattach the outer brake pad spring clip. Line the two upper and lower caliper mounting bolt holes up. Screw the two Allen bolts back in place and tighten down tight with the 7 mm Allen wrench.

    11

    Put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts down as tight as you can get them. Move to the front passenger side and follow the same steps as outlined above for changing the brake pads on the front passenger-side wheel.

    12

    Jack the Mazda 3 back up and remove the jack stands. Lower the Mazda 3 back to the ground. Crank the Mazda 3 up and pump the brake pedal in and out six times. This will fit the new pads to the rotor and remove any air from the brake lines. Turn the engine off.

Rabu, 16 September 2009

How to Install AC Delco Front Brakes

AC Delco is the original equipment manufacturer for all the brake pads installed on General Motors vehicles at the factory. The company, a subsidiary of GM, also offers several lines of aftermarket brake pads for GM vehicles and many other vehicle makes. You can purchase AC Delco pads through your local GM dealership or through many auto parts retailers. Installing front AC Delco brakes is a fairly straightforward job that's easily accomplished by anyone with basic auto repair skills and a few hours of spare time.

Instructions

    1

    Shove wheel chocks against the front and rear tread of the rear-left tire. Turn each of the front wheel's lug nuts counterclockwise with the lug wrench until they're loose enough for hand removal.

    2

    Lift the vehicle's front end off the ground with the floor jack. Place a jack stand under the front frame on both sides and lower the vehicle onto the stands with the jack. Consult your owner's manual for specific jacking locations.

    3

    Remove all the front lug nuts by hand. Take the front wheels off by hand to expose the front brakes.

    4

    Push the drain pan under the front-right brake assembly. Rinse away the brake dust on the brake rotor and caliper using brake cleaner.

    5

    Take the two caliper bolts out of the vehicle's front-right caliper using your socket set. Pick the caliper up and out of the mounting bracket by hand.

    6

    Pull the bad brake pads out of the vehicle's caliper by hand and throw them away. Clean the inside of the caliper completely with brake cleaner. Lube up the caliper slide pins with white lithium grease.

    7

    Retract the caliper pistons with the caliper piston tool before setting the AC Delco brake pads into the caliper by hand. Position the caliper into the mounting bracket manually. Thread both caliper bolts in by hand and then tighten them using the socket set.

    8

    Move over to the driver's side of the vehicle and repeat steps 4 through 7 to install the left side AC Delco brakes.

    9

    Put both front wheels back on your vehicle by hand. Reinstall the vehicle's lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.

    10

    Tighten all the lug nuts to the proper torque specifications using a torque wrench. If you don't know the proper torque specs for your lug nuts, contact your local dealer or tire shop.

How to Change the Brake Pads on a Chevrolet Cavalier

How to Change the Brake Pads on a Chevrolet Cavalier

The brake pads on your Chevrolet Cavalier should be inspected at least every 12 months or sooner if necessary. The brake caliper on your Cavalier has an inspection hole on top. Use this hole to measure the pad thickness. Your vehicle manufacturer recommends replacing the pads if they are worn down to 1/32 inches (0.8mm) of the backing board. However, chipped, cracked or otherwise damaged pads are another reason to replace them.

Instructions

Removing the Brake Pads

    1

    Open the hood and draw at least 1/2 of the brake fluid from the brake master cylinder using a clean turkey baster and an appropriate container.

    2

    Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a lug wrench. Raise the front wheels using a floor jack and support the vehicle on jack stands.

    3

    Finish removing the front wheel and tires.

    4

    Unscrew the two caliper-to-steering knuckle mounting bolts using a six-point or Torx bit socket and ratchet, depending on the type of bolts used on your particular Cavalier model. Rotate the caliper away from the brake rotor.

    5

    Remove the outer brake pad from the caliper and leave the inner pad.

    6

    Push the caliper piston into its bore using a large C-clamp. Use the C-clamp screw to push against the inner brake pad to seat the piston. Then remove the C-clamp and the inner pad. This will make room for the new thicker pads.

    7

    Secure the brake caliper to the car chassis or coil spring using a piece of wire. Leaving the caliper hanging loose may damage the brake hose attached to it.

Installing the Brake Pads

    8

    Clean the brake caliper, caliper mounting bracket and steering knuckle using brake parts cleaner spray and a lint-free piece of cloth. Make sure not to blow or inhale the brake dust on the wheel assembly.

    9

    Coat the back of the new brake pads with anti-squeal lubricant.

    10

    Detach the wire from the brake caliper and install the outer brake pad on the caliper, making sure the dowels on the pad backing board align with the holes in the caliper.

    11

    Position the inner pad on the caliper and push the pad into the piston until the pad retaining clip fully engages the piston.

    12

    Clean the two caliper mounting bolts with brake parts cleaner and a lint-free cloth.

    13

    Position the brake caliper and pads on the caliper bracket and start the two bolts by hand. Then tighten the bolts using the six-point or Torx bit socket and ratchet but do not overtighten the bolts to avoid stripping the threads.

    14

    Replace the pads on the opposite wheel assembly following Steps 4, from the previous section, through Step 7 of this section.

    15

    Mount the front wheels and tighten the wheel lug nuts using the lug wrench.

    16

    Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the lug nuts.

    17

    Depress the brake pedal several times until the pedal feels firm. Then check the level of the brake fluid on the master cylinder and add new brake fluid, if necessary, to bring the level up to the "Full" mark.

Selasa, 15 September 2009

How to Remove a Brake Drum From a 1997 Mazda 626

The 1997 Mazda 626 was equipped with a 2.0-liter in-line four-cylinder engine in the base model. An optional 2.5-liter V-6 was available for the 1997 626. Removal of the brake drums is usually performed when replacing or inspecting rear brakes. There are two different methods of removing and replacing the rear drums on a 1997 626. Replacing the rear drums or drum brakes creates greater stability throughout the entire braking system. It also allows for less wear on the front brakes, because the rear brakes are able to assist stopping at a greater capacity.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts on the 626 with a tire iron, but do not remove them. Raise the rear of the 626 with a jack. Place jack stands beneath the are axle cross-member, about 6 inches inward from the rear tires. Lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the rear wheel lug nuts, then remove the rear wheels.

    2

    Inspect the center hub of the rear drum. If a center cap covers the drum, remove it with a flathead screwdriver. Remove the crimp from the lock nut with a drift punch and hammer, then remove the lock nut with a ratchet and socket. If the center hub of the drum does not have a lock nut, remove the two Phillips screws from the face of the drum.

    3

    Remove the rear drum by hand. If the drum is stuck, push the locking lever stopper upward on the rear of the brake assembly. This will release the brake shoes from the brake drum. Remove the drum.

    4

    Measure the large opening on the inside of the brake drum. If the opening is larger than 9 15/16-inches, the brake drum needs to be replaced. Take measurements from different places across the brake drum opening. If the measurements are inconsistent, the drum should be replaced. If the drum is severely pitted or has deep scratches on the inner sides, the drum should be replaced.

    5

    Install the old or new brake drum onto the brake assembly. Install and tighten the center locking nut between 73 and 103 foot-pounds, using a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket. Crimp the lock nut when you are finished by driving the end of end of the lock nut into the groove in the rear spindle shaft with a drift punch and hammer, and install the center hub cap. If there is no center hub cap, install the two Philips screws and tighten them with a Phillips screwdriver.

    6

    Install the rear wheels onto the 626 and tighten the lug nuts snug with a tire iron. Raise the car off of the jack stands, then remove the stands from beneath the car. Lower the 626 to the ground. Tighten the rear wheel lug nuts to 85 foot-pounds, using a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and wheel nut socket.

How to Make Parking Brake Adjustments in a Mercury Villager

You can make parking brake adjustments to your Mercury Villager easily at home to avoid going to the mechanic. Adjust your Mercury Villager parking brakes when your van starts to slip down the hill in park position. Use this technique for models from 1997 to 2000.

Instructions

    1

    Start your Mercury Villager engine and press on the brake pedal several times while moving the vehicle in reverse. Make sure the parking brake pedal fully releases while the vehicle is in reverse.

    2

    Stop the van from moving and put the van in park. Turn off the Mercury Villager engine.

    3

    Raise your vehicle rear wheels in the air using the jack and support both rear wheels using the jack stands.

    4

    Locate the parking brake cable adjuster and the parking brake cables underneath the middle of the Mercury Villager. A cable comes from each rear wheel and then meets in the middle with the cable adjuster.

    5

    Turn the adjuster nut with your wrench or pliers until the parking brake pedal pushes down with 11 to 12 notches or clicks.

    6

    Push down fully on the parking brake pedal and verify the rear wheels do not move.

    7

    Lower your Mercury Villager using the jack and remove the jack stands from the rear wheels.

Senin, 14 September 2009

How to Adjust Rear Brakes in a Honda

Vehicles with rear drum brakes will often need adjusting to maintain braking power. For Hondas this adjustment is done automatically. When the brake shoes inside the drum brake wear down, they have to travel farther to create friction and, as a result, they have difficulty effectively slowing the car. When this happens, a self-adjusting mechanism, which is activated by the emergency brake, will reset the rest position of the brake shoes to restore stopping power.

Instructions

    1

    To adjust the rear drum brakes on your Honda, begin by pulling the parking brake up as far as it will go.

    2

    Press the parking brake release, putting the parking brake back into a disengaged position.

    3

    Repeat this 10 times in fairly rapid succession.

    4

    Now press down on the brake pedal. It should be noticeably firmer. If so, you are finished and your brakes have been adjusted.

    5

    If your brake pedal still isn't firm, drive in reverse and then firmly apply the brakes. Do this three times, then repeat Steps 1 through 4.

Minggu, 13 September 2009

How Do I Replace the Brake Pads for a 1990 Toyota Camry DX?

The brake pads in your 1990 Toyota Camry DX can be changed by most owners. The Camry brake pads are accessible and replaceable with a few common tools. Being organized will make the project go smoothly. Save money and time, by replacing your 1990 Toyota Camry DX brake pads at home. The project should not take longer than two or three hours.

Instructions

Removing the Brake Pads

    1

    Park your Camry on level ground, and shift the transmission to "Neutral."

    2

    Walk around the front of the vehicle, and open the hood. Locate the brake master cylinder reservoir. This is the plastic bottle with the brake fluid by the driver's side of the firewall. Draw half the brake fluid from the reservoir, with a hand siphon pump into a sealable container for later recycling. Leave the reservoir cap loose.

    3

    Loosen the lug nuts on the front of rear wheel assemblies with the brake assemblies you need to service, and lift that end of your Camry, with a floor jack. Position a safety jack under the frame, on both sides, for support, and lower your vehicle. Block the wheels that remain on the ground with two wooden blocks. Finish removing both wheel assemblies, and work on one brake assembly at a time.

    4

    Detach the brake hose mounting bracket from the strut assembly with a ratchet and socket, if you are servicing the rear brakes.

    5

    Unfasten the lower brake caliper mounting bolt with a wrench, while holding the bolt sleeve with an open-end wrench. The caliper is the component that seats over the brake pads on the brake rotor. Swing the caliper upwards, and hold it in place with a piece of wire, as you work on the pads. On some Camry models, you might need to remove both caliper mounting bolts. Either way, secure the caliper with a wire, to prevent damage to the brake hose, connected to the caliper.

    6

    Pay attention to the hardware mounted around the brake pads. Make a note of each component location and position in the assembly, such as number of shims, holding wire clips and pad wear indicator clips. You will need to replace each part as originally assembled, to prevent brake failure. Remove the hardware by hand, and organize the components, as you remove them.

Installing the New Brake Pads

    7

    Spray the caliper, caliper mounting bracket and rotor with brake parts cleaner. Wipe the brake components clean with lint-free towels.

    8

    Cover the caliper piston with a shop rag; push the piston into the bore, with a pair of rib joint pliers, and remove the rag.

    9

    Install the new brake pads, as well as the rest of the brake hardware on the caliper bracket, and lower the brake caliper, over the caliper bracket. Tighten the caliper mounting bolt to 29 ft-lbs (39 Nm) on the front brake assemblies and 14 ft-lbs (20 Nm) on the rear brake assemblies. Use a torque wrench and a socket.

    10

    Reattach the brake hose mounting bracket to the strut assembly with the ratchet and socket, if you are servicing the rear brakes.

    11

    Replace the brake pad set on the opposite brake assembly, starting with Step 4 in Section 1 and through Step 4 of this section.

    12

    Replace the wheel assemblies, and tighten the lug nuts, just enough to keep the wheel assembly flat against the wheel hub. Lower your Camry, and finish tightening the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the wooden block on the other set of wheels, and apply the parking brake. Replace the cap on the reservoir of the brake master cylinder. Depress the brake pedal several times, to seat the new brake pads on the brake rotor. Check the fluid level in the reservoir, and add new brake fluid, to bring the level up to the "Full" mark, if necessary. Close the hood.

    13

    Replace the cap on the reservoir of the brake master cylinder. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the new brake pads on the brake rotor. Check the fluid level in the reservoir, and add new brake fluid, to bring the level up to the "Full" mark, if necessary. Close the hood.

Jumat, 11 September 2009

How to Replace the Brake Pads on a Renault

How to Replace the Brake Pads on a Renault

The brake pads on the French-built Renault work the same as American-made vehicles. The brake pads are responsible for stopping the Renault by applying pressure to the inner and outer sides of the brake rotor. The friction of the brake pads dragging against the sides of the brake rotor is the main process that brings the Renault to a safe stop. Replace the brake pads once they have worn down to 1/8 of an inch. The brake rotors will need to be turned or replaced at the same time as the brake pads are replaced.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Renault on a flat surface. Apply the parking brake to prevent the car from rolling.

    2

    Loosen the lug nuts from the front wheels by turning the lug nuts counterclockwise with either a tire tool or the lug wrench that comes with the Renault. Do not remove the lug nuts.

    3

    Slide a floor jack under the front end of the Renault and position it under a jack point. Raise the front of the Renault up and place a jack stand under the side rails on both front sides of the car. Position the stands close to the front wheels so that they can safely and securely hold the weight of the Renault. Lower the front of the car to the top of the stands. Leave the jack sitting in the up position as an extra safety precaution.

    4

    Loosen then remove the lug nuts from the front wheels with the lug tool. Slide each front wheel off the hubs and lay the wheels flat to keep them from rolling.

    5

    Move to the driver's side wheel and locate the access hole on the side of the brake caliper. Insert the screw end of a C-clamp into the opening so that it is facing the outer brake pad. Position the other end of the C-clamp over the back of the brake caliper. Turn the C-clamp clockwise to compress the outer brake pad against the caliper cylinder. Once the cylinder is flush with the entrance of the cylinder housing, unscrew the C-clamp and remove it from the caliper.

    6

    Locate and remove the lower and upper caliper mounting slide bolts from the back of the caliper. There are two metric slide bolts that can be removed by turning the bolts counterclockwise with the ratchet and a metric socket.

    7

    Pull the brake caliper off of the side of the rotor by hand. Then hang the caliper to one of the steering components located behind the wheel hub assembly. Use a strand of mechanic's wire or a piece of rope to hang the caliper. This prevents the weight of the brake caliper from hanging by the brake fluid lines.

    8

    Pull the worn brake pads straight out of the caliper by hand. Discard the worn pads and slide the new brake pads into position inside the brake caliper. Then remove the brake caliper from the steering component and mount it back onto the side of the brake rotor with the two metric slide bolts. Tighten the slide bolts by turning them clockwise with the ratchet and metric socket.

    9

    Position the wheel back onto the wheel studs and screw the lug nuts as far down as they will go with the lug nut tool. Move to the front passenger side wheel and repeat the same steps above to replace the brake pads. Then jack the front of the Renault back up and take the jack stands out from under the side rails. Lower the Renault to the ground and slide the floor jack out.

    10

    Tighten the lug nuts on both wheels with the lug nut tool. Crank the Renault's engine and apply the brake pedal a couple of times all the way to the floor and back up to seat the new brake pads to the proper distance from the rotor. Then turn the engine off.

Kamis, 10 September 2009

How to Remove Seized Rotors on the Back of a Dodge Caravan

It was supposed to be an easy brake job except the rear rotor on your Dodge Caravan does not seem to want to come off. There's a few tricks to try out before you have to put everything back together and call in the cavalry. Most likely, if you have the tools to take the wheels off and try to remove the rotor, you already have some technical know-how and most likely have some other tools to make the rotor comply. If you're removing a seized rotor from the rear hub on a Dodge Caravan, replace the rotor with a new one. They're cheap enough and chances are you're going to incur damage to the rotor in the removal process.

Instructions

    1

    Park the Dodge Caravan on a level paved or concrete surface.

    2

    Place a wheel chock in front of one of the front tires.

    3

    Break the lug nuts loose on the rear tires.

    4

    Lift one side of the rear axle of the Caravan using the floor jack and place a jack stand under the rear axle.

    5

    Remove the lug nuts and tire.

    6

    Remove the caliper bolts using the ratchet and a socket. Remove the pads from the caliper starting with the outboard pad and pry it from the caliper housing with a flathead screwdriver. Remove the inboard pad and compress the piston of the caliper in using the C-clamp. Replace the pads. Hang the caliper to the frame using the bungee cord.

    7

    Remove the caliper anchor bolts using the ratchet and a socket.

    8

    Remove any retaining rings on the hub of the rotor around the studs. Pry them off with the screwdriver and discard them. You will not need them for reinstallation.

    9

    Strike the fin of the rotor on the edge using the ball peen hammer. Spin the rotor and strike it often and from the inside of the tire well moving out. Use as much force as necessary. If the rotor still does not want to come off (rare cases) light up the portable propane torch and apply a liberal amount of heat to the hub of rotor around the lug studs and strike with the hammer to shock it from the hub.

    10

    Sand down the hub facing with a medium grade sandpaper or emery cloth once the rotor has been removed and the hub has cooled down if you had to use the torch. Sand down the edges of the hub as well.

    11

    Apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant to the edge of the hub and this will help in the future when the rotor needs to be removed again for whatever reason.

    12

    Replace the parts in reverse procedure and repeat the steps for the other side.

How to Replace the Brake Calipers on a RAM 2500

The Dodge Ram 2500 has calipers on all four wheels, and any one of these calipers may need to be replaced. If a brake caliper has become damaged, it can affect the brake pads within it and needs to be replaced. This isn't the easiest operation, and professional help is recommended. Keep in mind that the Dodge Ram 2500 is a big truck.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the appropriate end of the truck on jack stands, block the wheels on the other end and remove the wheel for the caliper you need. It helps to loosen the lug nuts before raising the truck.

    2

    Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose to the caliper so you can disconnect the hose. Plug the hose with rubber to prevent fluid from escaping and contaminants from entering. Discard the sealing washers that were on the brake hose fitting.

    3

    Remove the two mounting bolts holding the caliper and remove the caliper from its bracket. It may take some force to detach the caliper.

    4

    Install the new caliper in place on its mounting bracket and install the mounting bolts. Connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo bolt; remember to unplug the hose first and use new sealing washers on both sides of the brake hose fitting.

    5

    Bleed the brake system of air; you should only need to do this at the one caliper. Connect a clear tube to the caliper's bleeder valve and insert the tube's other end in a container of fluid. Have another person press the brake pedal while you open the bleeder valve until fluid runs cleanly out the tube with no air. Refill the brake fluid at the master cylinder as needed.

    6

    Replace the wheel and lower the truck.

Selasa, 08 September 2009

How to Install Electric Brakes

Electric brakes are a special type of brake shoe assembly for trailers.The brakes connect to the brake pedal on the tow vehicle and and receive an electric current that uses a magnet to apply the brakes. Most trailer brake kits come pre-assembled with the shoes and magnets. You will need to install their backing plates onto the trailer's wheel and axle, and then wire the brakes to the towing vehicle.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the trailer and support it on jack stands, then remove the wheels with your lug wrench.

    2

    Pry the dust cap off the hub with a flat screwdriver and hammer. Remove the cotter pin or metal clip off the hub nut and then remove the nut, washer and bearing and slip off the hub.

    3

    Slide the electric brake assembly onto the axle. Make sure you have the correct plate for each side. The magnet on the backing plate must be on the bottom and the brake assembly arm must point toward the front of the vehicle.

    4

    Install the lock washers onto the mounting bolts at the rear end of the backing plate, then apply the nuts on the bolts and washers with your wrench.

    5

    Reinstall the hub with its washer and nut. Turn the hub as you tighten the nut to about 40 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, then stop turning and loosen the nut to finger-tight. Install a new cotter pin or metal clip.

    6

    Run a length of two conductor double jacketed wire from the front truck plug to one of the two brake assemblies and connect the wire at the brake backing plate. Run the wire along the axle to the other brake and connect it.

    7

    Connect one part of the conductor wire to the blue terminal on the truck's front plug, and connect the second wire to the white terminal.

    8

    Reattach the wheels and lower the trailer.

Senin, 07 September 2009

How to Replace Brake Pads on an F250

The F250 model designation refers to the entry-level offering of Ford Motor Co.'s line of medium-duty pickup trucks. The F250, which is made on the same assembly lines with other medium-duty Ford trucks up to and including the F550, shares almost no parts with Ford's F150 light truck. F250s use a disc braking system in which calipers squeeze the brake pads against a rotating disc. The friction created by this action slows or stops the truck. The disc brake pads will wear down after several thousand miles of use and will need to be replaced periodically.

Instructions

    1

    Chock the rear wheels. Remove the plastic center hub cap by inserting the tapered end of the lug wrench behind the hub cap. Give the lug wrench a twisting motion and remove the hub cap. Loosen, but do not remove, the eight lug nuts with the other end of the lug wrench.

    2

    Raise the front of the vehicle with a hydraulic floor jack so that the wheels are off the ground. Place jack stands under the each side of the front axle beam. Lower the floor jack.

    3

    Finish removing the lug nuts with the lug wrench and remove the wheels. Access the upper caliper retaining bolts from the inboard side of the brake caliper and remove them with a 15 mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet wrench.

    4

    Open the hood and remove the master cylinder cap near the driver's side firewall. Now pull the upper caliper straight up from its mounting. Hang the upper caliper to the coil spring in the wheel well with a piece of wire coat hanger. Be careful not stretch the flexible brake line that will still be attached to the upper caliper.

    5

    Pry the brake pads from each side of the disc brake rotor with a flat blade screw driver and discard them. Insert new brake pads onto each side of the rotor until they snap into place. Make sure the brake pad lining material is facing the rotor on each side.

    6

    Place a "C" clamp over the piston in the upper caliper and tighten the clamp until the piston has fully retracted. Remove the "C" clamp and slide the upper caliper over the brake pads. Line up the mounting holes and tighten the mounting bolts with a 15 mm socket and ratchet.

    7

    Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the other front wheel. Replace the wheels and tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Raise the front of the truck with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the floor jack until the wheels are on the ground. Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. Push the hubcaps back into place until they snap into position.

    8

    Check the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder. Make sure it is not overfull. Use a syringe to remove excess fluid if necessary. Replace the master cylinder cap and close the hood.

How to Clean & Adjust the Emergency Brake on a PT Cruiser GT

How to Clean & Adjust the Emergency Brake on a PT Cruiser GT

The Chrysler PT Cruiser has four-wheel disc brakes. The center of the rear disc rotors form a brake drum, which houses the emergency or parking brake shoes. The parking brake shoes on the PT Cruiser need occasional adjustment.While you are adjusting the parking brake shoes, you should clean the assembly to ensure good operation, as road dust and grime build up in the parking brake assembly and can cause failure of the system.

Instructions

Clean and Inspect

    1

    Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Remove both rear wheels. Retract the disc brake caliper piston slightly by grasping the caliper on the inboard side and pulling out gently working with the caliper pins. Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts from the brake caliper. Remove the brake caliper by rotating the top part away from the caliper support first and then lifting the bottom part clear.

    2

    Hang the caliper from the rear strut using the bungee cord. Remove any clips that are on the wheel studs and discard. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly. Repeat this for the other side. Inspect the brake shoes for wear. If there is less than 2 mm of lining from the steel surface of the shoe, replace the shoes and hardware.

    3

    Spray the shoes and hardware liberally with the brake cleaning solvent. Wipe the surface of the brake shoes with a shop towel, as well as the springs and hardware. Use the sponge to apply the soapy water to the parking brake shoes, springs and hardware. Scrub with the brush and rinse out with clean water. Wash the inside of the brake drum surface with the soapy water, as well as the contact surface of the disc brake rotor. Rinse and dry carefully. Install the rotor and the brake caliper. Install the rear wheels.

Adjusting the Shoes

    4

    Remove the rubber plugs in the backing plates or the back of the rotor and drum assembly. For the left side or driver's side, insert a medium-sized screwdriver into the opening to engage the toothed wheel that operates the adjusters. Rotate the star wheel downward until a slight drag is noticed while spinning the wheel by hand. Using the screwdriver, turn the wheel upward until no drag is noticed. Do not back off the wheel more than two clicks after no drag is felt.

    5

    Insert a medium-sized screwdriver on the right side opening. Rotate the wheel upwards until a drag is felt and then back it off by rotating the wheel downward until you feel no resistance, again not going more than two clicks past this point.

    6

    Operate the parking brake lever a few times. With the parking brake lever pulled, see if you can move the rear wheel and tire assembly. You should not be able to if the shoes are working correctly. Release the handle and the wheels should spin freely. If they do not work correctly, re-adjust the parking brake shoes.